alchemologie

Moonrise

2012-02-08T22:50:00.001-05:00

I gazed upon the cloudless moon,
And loved her all the night,
Till morning came and radiant noon,
And I forgot her light-

No, not forget-eternally
Remains its memory dear;
But could the day seem dark to me
Because the night was fair?

Emily Bronte

I'm so pleased to announce the latest perfume offering from Alchemologie, Moonrise.

When Pam Grossman of Observatory Room approached me to create a perfume for a group show based on the moon I agreed on the condition that she collaborate with me on it. I walked away wondering, "Ok, now, what does the moon smell like". When Pam and I sat down to begin she brought with her a list of plants that were historically said to be connected to the moon. The most obvious place to start on that list was with an artemesia, inspired by the Greek goddess, Artemis, who represents the new moon. Artemis is portrayed in the fragrance by a few spare drops of wormood in the top note, supported by bergamot and petitgrain. The heart of the perfume is made of luminous jasmine, honey absolute and balanced with rose. Sandalwood, frankincense and oak moss form the base chord. The finished perfume, Moonrise, made it's debut at the opening of Lunation: Art on the Moon on January 7th. Two lunar inspired cocktails I created were served at the event, The Honeymoon (oat and honey soaked vodka with milk and sandalwood oil) and Dark Side of the Moon (tangerine spiked vodka with homemade creme de cacao and jasmine).

Two New Cocktails Inspired by the Moon

2012-01-05T14:41:00.000-05:00

For the group art show, Lunation: Art on the Moon, I've come up with two new lunar inspired cocktails. The Honeymoon, a milk and honey concoction spiked with sandalwood oil, and Dark Side of the Moon, a chocolatey tangerine libation accented with jasmine oil.

The Dark Side of the Moon is made with homemade tangerine vodka which is incredibly easy to make. The most difficult part is shaving the fragile fragrant peel of the fruit while not taking the bitter pith with it. I used the skin of one Satsuma tangerine per cup of vodka. Simply place the peel and vodka in a jar and give it a good shake every few hours and it should be ready in under 24 hours. Strain out the peel and you're ready to tend bar.

The recipe also calls for homemade creme de cacao. The store bought variety with it's synthetic chocolate flavor might work but once you've had the real thing you can't conceive of drinking the adulterated version.

Creme de Cacao

one cup sugar

two cups water

one ounce unsweetened chocolate

one half teaspoon vanilla

one cup vodka

In a medium pan combine sugar and water. Boil on medium high heat until the mixture is reduced to half its original volume, about 20 minutes. About five minutes before the syrup is done melt chocolate in a two cup or larger container. Immediately and very slowly pour hot syrup into the melted chocolate, stirring vigorously while pouring. If mixture is not completely smooth and blended beat with a mixer or in a blender. Cool mixture for 30 minutes. Add vanilla and vodka. Blend well. Immediately pour into a clean sterile bottle or jar with a tight fitting lid or cap.

The secret ingredient of Dark Side of the Moon is the drop of jasmine absolute, diluted to 5% strength. Jasmine has long been associated with the moon and adds a narcotic floral body to the cocktail.

Dark Side of the Moon

one jigger tangerine infused vodka

one jigger creme de cacao

two drop jasmine absolute, 5%

Give the combined ingredients a good shake and strain into a chilled martini glass, or serve over ice.

The Honeymoon is made with homemade oat and honey vodka made by soaking rolled oats and honey in vodka for three weeks. To make one cup of vodka use a half cup of rolled oats and a scant quarter cup of honey. There are many varieties of honey so pick one you like, preferably a milder one. Shake it all up in a clean sterile jar and macerate in a cool dark place and make sure to give it a good shake daily. Filter through a paper coffee filter into a clean bottle. Straining can be a little challenging so be patient.

The Honeymoon also calls for sandalwood oil in a dilution of 10%, and a teaspoon of Chamomile Water.

The Honeymoon

one jigger honey oat infused vodka

one jigger milk

one drop sandalwood oil, 10%

1/8 teaspoon chamomile water

Give the combined ingredients a good shake and pour over ice.

A New Perfume for Lunation: Art on the Moon

2012-01-03T09:58:00.000-05:00

Observatory Room is hosting it's first ever group-curated show, Lunation:Art on the Moon.

Artists and scientists have always been attracted to the moon…

Our closest celestial neighbor, the earth’s little sister, the moon creates the tides and illuminates the woods at night. For centuries, humanity believed the moon provided a key into the invisible realm: it called out the beast within us, freeing us to act as wolves, to run, to dance, to chant—and sometimes (as in Duncan Jones’ Moon) to split in two, to find our double, our changeling moon-self.

Is the moon home to life? Today we know it isn’t, but even as of 1830, speculation was rampant that the moon was inhabited by Christianized bat-people who worshiped in great ziggurats. (See The Sun and the Moon by Observatory alumnus Matthew Goodman for details.) Still, life comes to the moon. We know the moon contains frozen water, and we dream of using it as our jumping-off point for visiting even more alien vistas.

Down here, despite all the prowess and nuance of our latest telescopes, earthlings still look up naked-eyed with excitement at the full moon. Lovers and children gaze up at its slowly blinking façade in mute wonder. Artists portray the moon as a source of danger and power, and latter-day sorceresses and men of magic call up to that heavenly lamp, seeking to transcend the ordinary night. For them, the old myths have not changed so much: the moon is still a secret mirror, showing in pale light how the familiar contains always an element of the unexpected…

Herbal Alchemy will be participating in the show by offering up a new perfume for the occasion, Moonrise. The Greek goddess, Artemis, who represents the new moon, is portrayed in this fragrance by the addition of wormwood (an artemesia) in the top note, supported by bergamot and petitgrain. Luminous jasmine forms the basis of the heart along with honey and rose, and sandalwood and frankincense form the base chord.

Opening Party: Saturday, January 7th, 7–10 PM, FREE
Closing Party/Observatory’s 3rd Anniversary Fundraiser: Saturday, February 18th, 8 PM/$20
Show Viewing Hours: Thursday & Friday 3–6 PM, Saturday & Sunday 12–6 PM

I'll be serving two special cocktails at the opening party: The Honeymoon, a sumptuous concoction of oat and honey vodka spiked with sandalwood, and Dark Side of the Moon, a chocolatey jasmine spiked libation. Hope to see you there!

Teaching Natural Perfume

2011-12-30T12:34:00.000-05:00

A selection of natural oils

My Natural Perfume Blending Workshops at 3rd Ward in Brooklyn have been a joy to teach. It's was enormous fun to introduce students to a selection of essential oils, absolutes and concretes and guide them towards blending their own fragrance.

For most of the students it was the first time they had a chance to smell some of the more exotic and rare oils that a natural perfumer uses. Ambery labdanum and earthy oak moss were favorite bottom notes for the group. They swooned over sultry jasmine sambac and orange flower concrete, rich and complex honey and spicy aromatic clove absolute. Head notes of pink grapefruit, fir needle and black pepper peaked their interest for top notes.

The January and February classes at 3rd Ward have filled up already but there is a link to get on a wait list for future classes. I'll also be teaching at Observatory Room sometime this spring. I've discovered that I love teaching!

Natural Perfume Blending Workshops

2011-12-25T23:02:00.000-05:00

Smell is the most neglected of our senses yet it has an instantaneous power to penetrate our consciousness invoking memories and emotion. Odors are ethereal and elusive yet can strongly attract or repel.

As a concerned consumer, you are choosing organic food, seeking out sustainable products and opting for eco-friendly packaging. But what about the fragrance you wear? That signature scent is likely composed of synthetic materials (as most commercial fragrances are), mass-produced, packaged and shipped around the world in the millions of units. Natural perfumery is a much different process that uses only essential oils and precious absolutes that are extracted from plants. Like fine wine, subtle differences can be found from the same plant from year to year depending on soil conditions and climate meaning that it is not an exact science but a creative alchemical process.

In this sensory workshop we will examine the artisanal art of natural perfumery. Students will gain a basic understanding of the sense of smell, the history of perfume, the advent of synthetic ingredients and the return to naturals. Perfume ingredients and formulation will be explored and each participant will leave with two bottles of their own bespoke perfume.

No prior knowledge of perfume making is required. Students should bring a notebook to class, all other materials will be provided.

3rd Ward
195 Morgan Avenue
Brooklyn, NY
Sunday, December 11th
2:30 - 5:300pm

and in 2012...

3rd Ward
195 Morgan Avenue
Brooklyn, NY
Thursday, January 19th
7:00 - 10:00pm
and
Saturday, February 11th
1:30 - 4:30pm

The Art of Collaboration: Rachelle Garniez and Her Signature Scent

2011-11-06T11:02:00.000-05:00

A few years ago I decided that working collaboratively was going to be far more interesting than anything I could come up with on my own. After years of insisting on working solo and rejecting any input I suddenly came around to the notion of how creative it could be to work with others. I've always loved an assignment, someone suggesting a project that has to be worked within guidelines. A blank white page can be thrilling but often intimidating and overwhelming. Collaborating is more like working within the guidelines, testing how creative you can be within certain boundaries. I also enjoy the chance to step outside of working in isolation and having another to share ideas with.

Rachelle Garniez

I met Rachelle Garniez a few years ago at a local music venue. She was listed on the events calendar as "an accordionist and chanteuse extraordinaire" and I was intrigued. I loved the show and kept coming back until we finally talked and became friends. She expressed a love of perfume and as I warmed up to the idea of a collaboration I approached her with the idea of turning one of her songs into a fragrance. She loved the idea and suggested "Tourmaline", off of her cd, Melusine Years.

After spending some time listening to the song we finally got together to start blending, not sure exactly how to put musical notes to fragrance but we knew we wanted the scent to be uplifting and spirited, like the song. We loved the tobacco absolute and how it pared with peru balsam. A touch of ambrette and guaicwood rounded out our bottom chord. Linden and orange flower absolute became the basis of the heart note with honey absolute, neroli and carnation giving it a bit more edge. Rosewood and bitter orange top out the fragrance.

I made a limited edition of the perfume for a pair of shows that Rachelle was doing at the locally famous Joe's Pub in Manhattan. It was a joy for me to dab perfume on the many outstretched wrists after the show. I mingled with the crowd afterward and got a chance to really smell how the perfume interacted with each woman's particular chemical make-up.

I recently sold the last bottle of Tourmaline. After seeing Rachelle perform again last night I've decided to make another batch. Working with those particular oils again transports me back to that long afternoon spent blending while a lost butterfly fluttered around my studio. Trish at Scent Hive has written a lovely revue of Tourmaline which you can read here.

Rachelle is releasing her new cd, Sad-Dead-Alive-Happy, at Dixon Place in Manhattan on Friday, November 11th at 8:30. I'll be there dabbing wrists after the show.

New Extracts

2011-10-19T16:11:00.000-04:00

Chocolate Mint and Peach Tea extract

Back in June I posted about my absolute obsession with tincturing and macerating. My garden was in full thrust and I was still heady from my recent trip to Mandy Aftel's natural perfume workshop in Berkeley. My mission, originally, was to take advantage of my garden to create some alcohol bases to make perfumes with. I ventured a little further afield and ended up tincturing dried jasmine blossoms and, most rewardingly, tea.

My biggest success was with an organic loose leaf peach flavored tea. It's difficult to find a fruity note in natural oils so originally I was simply looking for that. What I discovered was that the extracted liqueur was so much richer and more complex than I could have imagined. I dabbed it on my wrists constantly all summer long and inhaled deeply that sweet, smokey aroma reminiscent of hundreds of comforting afternoons with my hands wrapped around a warm cup.

My other big success in extract making was with the chocolate mint taking over my community garden plot. I knew from infusing it in vodka that the alcohol seemed to really extend the chocolate flavor, much more so than in a cup of herb tissane. I finely chopped up about a cup of mint and poured enough 190 proof vodka over it to cover and let it sit for a few days. After straining it I added another cup of chopped herb to make it double strength.

I quite naturally started to think about how to use the extracts in food. I think their flavors would lend themselves to some delicious desserts, most notably ice cream and sorbets. I started to experiment with using them in seltzer and, not surprisingly, they were delicious. Peach tea seltzer has now become a favorite of mine and I can't keep enough extract in the house. As the bubbly glass approaches your nose you can't help but be overwhelmed by it's gorgeous bouquet. About a half teaspoon to a teaspoon works nicely in a ten to twelve ounce glass of sparkling water. I'm spoiled now, I'll never again buy a lemon, lime or (horror of horrors) artificial black cherry flavored seltzer again.

My New Krrb

2011-10-04T16:33:00.000-04:00

I've been fortunate to have been found by the local networking website, Krrb.com. They were kind enough to set up a nice "store" for me on their website and spotlighted my potions in their blog. They seem to particularly like my Viper Oil.

In the '20's folks who smoked medicinal herbs (think Louis Armstrong) were called Vipers. There are a slew of songs from that era including a favorite of mine performed nicely by the 4th Street Nite Owls, "If You're a Viper".

The band and I had an idea for a skin formulation, something akin to Snake Oil, for "taking the sting out" that they could sell at shows. Viper Oil was born out of this brainstorm and uses hemp oil as it's main ingredient.

The hemp oil is combined with an olive oil maceration of comfrey, calendula, plantain, yarrow, red clover, thyme and roses (all grown locally in my garden) and fortified with the essential oils of frankincense, lavender, geranium, hemp, carrot seed and rose.

I had a good time doing some research into old time Snake Oil and could only imagine a barker announcing my "miracle cure". "Takes the sting out of skin afflictions such as insect bites, cuts, minor burns, abrasions & irritations. Reduces inflammation, soothes your wounds, abates your misery. The wound resolution miracle!"

Handlebar Magazine Review

2011-09-26T13:16:00.000-04:00

In August I was lucky enough to be reviewed in the online men's magazine Handlebar. The article discusses the difficulty in finding a men's fragrance that isn't overpriced and "overpopultated" and features a few smaller independent perfumers. Jeremy Wolf writes a generous review of The Ambergill, and even goes so far as to refer to me as an "alchemical savant"! I'm blushing...

Herbal Alchemy Gets Some Love

2011-09-20T14:42:00.000-04:00

I was recently interviewed for the online magazine Scout Mob, a great resource for local businesses. They offer daily deals for subscribers so check it out. The lovely Carly Wray made me look like I really know what I'm talking about. The post sent me a flurry of interest in my lectures and workshops, quite a few sales off my website and several offers to be my intern! I'm feeling the love!

Cocktail Lab, Summer 2011

2011-07-12T17:38:00.001-04:00

Every season has inspired me to make new vodka flavors. Summertime has it's bonus of fresh herbs straight from my garden. As I weed, water and muse over my plot I start to imagine the frothy cocktails being shaken up from these freshly macerated liquors. Once I have a few flavors to play with I gather up some possible mixers to go along. Lemons, limes, tonic and club soda are a must as well as a long lingering look at the juice selection at my food coop and local grocery store.

Once I have everything assembled I invite my fellow cocktail lovers over for another round of Cocktail Lab. On hand were Lori Firpo, Diane Fargo and Rebecca Winzenried. Food is required lest we lose our senses in drink. This round had lots of fresh vegetables and dip plus some delicious shrimp dumplings from Chinatown.

After feeling like I'd used all of the best ideas for flavors in last summers extravaganza I stumbled upon some overlooked plants in my community garden. Red shiso was one such plant. I'd only ever had it in sushi before but sampled some while weeding one day and was pleasantly surprised. It's in the mint family but has a dinstinctively anise like flavor. I used the leaves of an approximately ten inch stem chopped up in once cup of vodka and let it sit for about a day. The resulting liquid is a gorgeous pink color.

Another overlooked herb I infused was Sweet Annie. This plant has been popping up all over the garden since I joined eleven years ago. Up until last summer no one was able to identify it until one member made it her mission. It's an artemesia, a relative of wormwood, and sometimes referred to as Sweet Wormwood. It's aroma is described as camphorous and there is definitely that note but there is so much more going on. It's sweet and lightly floral quality makes it an intoxicating beverage.

My recent foray into tincturing and creating extracts has me sampling the many types of tea available. I'd heard about tea infused vodka before but it never appealed to me until I inhaled the sweet aroma of some organic peach flavored black tea extract that I recently made. Now I'm busy reading up on tea and collecting a few varieties. I steeped some organic Assam for our little soire.

The last vodka I conjured up is made of basmati rice. I love the sweet perfumed fragrance of basmati rice and after the success of the honey oat vodka from last winter I had a feeling it would be a hit.

Thus assembled and fed we began to conjure up some ideas. I'd been thinking about shiso vodka and that fresh garden cucumber in the fridge all day. It took several rounds for us to hit on a recipe for something we're calling The Shihito, a delightfully refreshing libation with muddled cucumber and yuzu.

We started a recipe for a tea and lemonade cocktail with a muddled mint leaf and honey absolute. I want to work on the tea vodka to perfect that one. Ideas are brewing for the basmati rice vodka (saffron?) and a few other things, one inspired by spumoni. Stay tuned.

The Shihito

I jigger shiso vodka

4 thin cucumber slices

1 mint leaf

1/2 teaspoon sugar

pinch of salt

2 drops of yuzu essence

splash of club soda

In the bottom of a glass muddle the cucumber and mint with the sugar and salt. Add the shiso vodka and yuzu essence. Fill the glass with ice and top with a splash of seltzer. Relax and enjoy the flavors of summer.

Shiso

2011-07-05T16:49:00.001-04:00

A few years ago someone in my community garden planted shiso, both the green and red variety. It happily naturalized itself and now self sows and comes up everywhere. I never paid it much attention and generally weeded it out of my vegetable plot. At the end of the season last year a few of us ordered sushi one evening and someone had the brilliant idea to wrap each piece in shiso before we ate it. I was surprised by it's anise-like flavor, somewhere between mint and fennel. Since then I've been waiting to experiment with this new addition to my palette.

Shiso, otherwise known as perilla (Perilla frutescens) is originally from Japan but has naturalized widely in the US and Canada. I'm so far only familiar with the red shiso, which is used to dye umeboshi plums and paste. It's rich in vitamins and minerals and has strong anti-inflammatory properties.

Use shiso like basil, adding it to cooking just at the end. It pairs beautifully with tuna and is used in Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cooking. It's also a wonderful addition to a fruit salad. For more ideas on how to cook with shiso check out this great article in the L.A.Times.

Of course I had to wonder what shiso vodka would be like so over the holiday weekend I whipped up a batch. The red leaves lend a lovely pink color to the fragrant and refreshing liquid making it perfect for summer drinking. I see it with muddled fresh cucumber. Cocktail forthcoming!

Tinctures, Extracts and Infusions

2011-06-23T17:11:00.001-04:00

Linden tincture filtering.

This season has me wanting to capture as much of it's flavors and fragrances as I possibly can. After my recent trip to California to learn more about natural perfumery I've been hungry to gather new fragrant ingredients. I thought I might tincture a few things to add to my perfume organ.

Linden blossoms drying.

I started with trying to capture the incredible, brief and elusive fragrance of linden. Where I live in Brooklyn there are many linden trees and there is a two week period at the end of June that is phenominaly fragrant. I recently bought a bottle of linden CO2 from Aftelier and have been playing around with it. It's a beautiful note, very honeyed and sweet but a bit difficult to work with since it's so easy to lose the quintessential quality of it. I wondered how a tincture would be so I picked some blossoms and left them to dry for a day or two before I submerged them in 190 proof vodka. After a few days I strained it out and replaced the blossoms. It's now on it's third infusion. I shake it daily and dab a bit on my wrist. At first it's grassy and more like hay but dries down more like the scented June air.

Chocolate mint extract filtering.

In my community garden plot I have a patch of chocolate mint that's out of this world. I've used it in the past to make tea and was pleased but not as fanatical about it is as I've been since last summer when I made some chocolate mint vodka out of it. The chocolate really comes through when it's macerated. I've been conjuring cocktails (along with the rest of the civilized world) the past couple of years but I don't even mix this with anything else. It's so good just on it's own. I wondered if I could make an extract of it to flavor other things, like seltzer or ice cream. I chopped up a bunch very fine and put it in a jar and covered it with 190 proof alcohol. It very quickly turned bright green. I shook it daily and yesterday strained off the emerald green liquid and used it to make chocolate mint seltzer. It's delicious but I'm not satisfied so I picked more mint last night and have added it to the extract - a double maceration.

Jasmine blossoms macerating.

Now my interest is piqued and I've been exploring some other materials to tincture. Dried jasmine blossoms have yielded a surprising result, more like cigarette burning than the indolic and intoxicating fragrance I expected. I've also been playing around with tea. I had some peach flavored black tea in the house and started with that. It's made the most exquisite elixir, I want to slather myself in it. A recent trip to the tea store and I now have Lapsang Souchong, Jasmine and Russian Caravan soaking.

Basically all you do is make sure you have clean jars and good strong vodka (190 proof is best). Fresh plant material is best dried a day or two so that there is less water involved in your creation. Chop herbs finely and put in the jar and pour in just enough alcohol to cover. Make sure that everything is submerged in alcohol or you run the risk of spoilage and ruining your experiment. Shake the jars daily. You can double the maceration if you're so inclined. As always keep good notes so if you create something heavenly you can create it again. Good luck!

Cocktail Alchemy - A Workshop

2011-06-01T15:28:00.001-04:00

"Alchemy is the art of transmutation, of taking the rough and raw and rendering it more precious" writes Pam Grossman, curator of the group art show, Alchemically Yours. To celebrate the closing of the show at the Observatory Room in Brooklyn I'll be hosting a Cocktail Workshop featuring some alchemically transmuted elixirs. Simple vodka will be transformed by a little herbal magic and then successfully rendered into delicious (and possibly even nutritious) cocktails. Chocolate mint, angelica and lemon verbena vodka (among others) will be available to sample as well as the cocktails they inspire. The Sprite, The Kashmere and The Black Dog are a few of the libations that will be passed around to tickle your palette.

Cocktail Dilutions

I'll be using essential oils and absolutes from my natural perfumer's collection to add a unique accent to the drinks. The oils have been diluted so that only one drop is necessary to give the cocktails an original and uncommon flavor. Some of the flavors include jasmine, yuzu, blood orange, black pepper and petitgrain. Floral Waters such as Chamomile Water also make an an unexpected appearance.

The show is running until June 12th at the Observatory Room, 543 Union (at Nevins).

The Healing Benefits of Mustard

2011-05-31T10:27:00.002-04:00

The healing effects of Mustard have been appreciated by many cultures for centuries. The ancient Greeks and Romans, Europeans, and Native Americans have all used mustard for medicinal purposes. It is known for it's detoxification and purification abilities, increasing circulation, oxygenation and the elimination of toxins. Mustard baths are recommended for treating headaches, colds and cough. The effects of rheumatic pains and neuralgias are also decreased through regular use.

Lately the aches and pains of life (traveling, gardening and working out) are taking their toll and I've started to search for a remedy. I came across some literature about the healing benefits of mustard baths and decided to try it out.

I combined mustard with sodium bicarbonate to neutralize acid and restore pH balance. The essential oils of wintergreen, thyme, eucalyptus and rosemary are added to reduce muscle soreness. The effect of my first bath amazed me. First I got my house in order so that I could go straight to bed as was suggested. I prepared my bath and sunk into the yellow fragrant water and let go of the details of the day. As I soaked I felt my body let go of the tension and I finally relaxed. I always do a little ritual meditation when I pull the plug on the spent bathwater, imagining my tension and woes being drawn off of me and circling the drain. Afterward I showered off the residual mustard and made my way to bed.

I am now a true believer in the power of this ancient herb. I slept soundly straight through the night and woke up refreshed and definitely less tense. I was inspired to share my conversion with my clients so formulated and packaged my own Mustard Bath for Herbal Alchemy Apothecary, in a packet good for one bath or a jar with two or three.

Natural Perfume Workshop with Mandy Aftel

2011-05-23T11:07:00.001-04:00

Mandy's scent organ

I recently attended a most informative, creative and sensual workshop in the art of natural perfume in the home studio of Mandy Aftel, the premier natural perfumer and author the the natural perfumers bible, Essence and Alchemy. Over the years I've taken several perfume and aromatherapy workshops but the difference here is, aside from all of the practical information (of which there was plenty), it was also akin to taking an art class. Indeed, Mandy has elevated natural perfume from hippie fragrance to an art form and my appreciation of her as an artist grew throughout the weekend. Her teaching method was simple and straight from art school: a morning lecture explaining concepts and exploring materials and techniques followed by a blending session where we each made our own perfume. We were then critiqued and spent some time adjusting our formulas and critiqued again. Her critiques were accurate but delivered gently and inevitably we all made better perfumes the second time around.

I came away with a better understanding of the shape and texture of a perfume and with a nose tuned in to the subtle differences in aromas, better able to distinguish between a good quality oil from it's lesser counterpart. Indeed, my sense of smell is heightened overall. As I walk down the streets of my Brooklyn neighborhood in Spring I can pick up subtle scents wafting in the breeze. I came across a vase of fresh peonies the other day and could distinctly pick up the variance in the scent of each blossom.

I also had the opportunity to smell things I had only read about and things I have searched for to no avail. One such oil is Flouve, a sweet, herbaceous tobacco-like oil that is so rich and complex that one keeps finding notes in it. Another is Oud, a rare and precious oil from the Agarwood tree, one of the most expensive perfume ingredients around at about $1000 to $1400 an ounce. Mandy collects antique oils as well which she hunts the globe for. Antique patchouli oil is rich and complex and bears little resemblance to the ubiquitous hippie aroma.

The workshop was a wonderful, creative and expansive experience which I'll be drawing from to create new fragrances for Herbal Alchemy. I'm so grateful for the opportunity to study with Mandy and to get to know a little better this warm, generous and dedicated teacher and perfumer.

A selection of top notes from the perfume organ.

Berkeley in Bloom

2011-05-20T20:25:00.001-04:00

I'm just back in town from a wonderful weekend in Berkeley, CA where I attended a natural perfume workshop with the extremely talented Mandy Aftel. The whole fragrance experience began for me on the first day of my trip spent wandering the streets of North Berkeley. Everywhere I turned I was astonished by fragrant blooms. Thick brackets of jasmine hung thickly all over the neighborhood, and roses the size of cabbages wafted their aromas on the breeze.

Berkeley Rose Garden

I discovered the Berkeley Rose Garden, perched high on a hill with an incredible view of the Bay and Golden Gate Bridge. It was a literal amphitheater of roses. I was very fortunate to visit the area during peak rose season. Every rose smell differently and it was a wonderful way to prepare my nose for my upcoming workshop in perfumery.

A Rave Review!

2011-04-20T18:30:00.002-04:00

I'm so thrilled to share this lovely review from Trish at Scent Hive for my Garden Walk perfume. Trish has been kind and generous with her words and I'm thrilled to bits.

Garden Walk #1 is a perfume commissioned by Jessica Warren from Brownstone Brooklyn Garden District. The fragrance was inspired by the flowers in the group's 13th Annual Garden Walk. The tour included 15 private gardens as well as several vibrant community gardens in the historical district of Clinton Hill, Brooklyn.

Earthy notes such as orris root, ambrette and hay represent the fertile soil of these gardens, floral middle notes such as tuberose and neroli round it out and it ends with top notes of petitgrain and elemi. Even the bees are represented in this formula with the addition of honey absolute.

The perfume is $45 for 20 ml, or a sample vial for $3, and can be purchased on my website at www.herbalalchemy.net or my Etsy store.

Nettles: A Spring Tonic

2011-04-15T17:15:00.001-04:00

The Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) is a common herbaceous plant native to Europe, Asia, northern Africa and North America. It is known for it's sting which is caused by it's many hairs containing several chemicals. When touched the hairs break off and act as a needle injecting acetylcholine, histamine, 5-HT or seratonin which cause a painful sting or paresthesia. A folk remedy for rheumatism is to flog oneself with nettles (also called urtication) producing reddness and irritation.

My interest in it is for it's rich vitamin and mineral content. Made into a tea or infusion it makes a delicious tonic. After a long winter the high mineral content makes them an excellent remedy for anaemia. Their high vitamin C content makes the iron they contain easily absorbable. Nettles also increase uric acid excretion which explains why they are a valuable remedy for arthritis and gout.

Nettles also lower blood sugar levels, encourage the flow of breast milk, are a great astringent (so stop internal bleeding) and are useful for treating eczema. It's histamine content make it an effective treatment for hay fever. It is also said that a nettle hair rinse can eliminate dandruff, make the hair more glossy and possibly arrest hair loss.

The blood invigorating properties of this common herb make it an essential component of my transition from winter to the warmer and more active seasons. I start infusing the herb early in the spring to reinvigorate myself. Infusions are different from teas in that they steep far longer and are therefore more potent. Every night before I go to bed I put a handful of dried nettles (I buy them by the pound) in a clean 24 ounce jar and pour boiling water over them. Loosely cover the jar (if you tighten it it will be difficult to open in the morning) and leave out on the counter. In the morning I strain the herbs from the infusion. I also squeeze as much liquor from the herbs as possible. You can drink them cool but I prefer to gently warm them on the stovetop. Drink a third of the infusion three times per day. I keep the infusion in the refrigerator during the day to retard spoilage. I've added a few other herbs to my brew, some for flavor and some for some other conditions I'm working on. You can add some peppermint or lemon balm to make it a bit more refreshing. I've added chamomile to mine since I'm attempting to de-stress my sometimes frazzled urban nerves. I might add that the spent herbs make excellent compost!

I should add that this is a regimen I do for myself every spring. Please be responsible and always use caution when self-medicating (standard disclaimer and all that).

Be healthy and enjoy the spring!

Aromatherapy Workshop: Simple Home Remedies

2011-03-29T09:06:00.001-04:00

I'll be teaching an aromatherapy workshop on Saturday, April 2nd from 2:15 to 3:30 at GreenThumbs's 27th Annual GrowTogether. Participants will gain a basic understanding of aromatherapy, essential oils and their applications, including recommendations for an aromatherapy first aid kit. Everyone will get the opportunity to create their own therapeutic bath salts and massage oil.

27th Annual GreenThumb GrowTogether

You are invited on April 2nd, to join a thousand community gardeners and greening professionals from all over New York City for a day of learning, sharing, networking and greening inspiration at the 27th Annual GreenThumb GrowTogether from 9am to 4pm at Hostos Community College! Please pass this information out to the rest of your garden group and anyone else who might be interested. This form is also available to download on our website, but you must send payment with the form.

This year’s conference features favorite workshops from past years, as as well as exciting new ones, including many hands on workshops, and new ones for youth gardeners. We are also excited to announce that Joan Dye Gussow, author of Growing, Older: A Chronicle of Death, Life, and Vegetables, will be our keynote speaker.

https://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/163365

$3 + $1.10 service fee for purchasing tickets online.

Cost covers conference, t-shirt and lunch.

If you do not pre-register, you are not guaranteed lunch or a t-shirt.

The preregistration is extended for online only

Directions

Subway: Hostos is practically on top of the

149th Street and Grand Concourse stop. The 2,

4, 5 trains will get you right there.

Buses: BX 19 or BX 1 bus to 149th Street and

Grand Concourse.

To learn more about GreenThumb go to www.greenthumbnyc.org.

The Latest Batch of Cocktails

2011-03-25T16:57:00.001-04:00

Better late than never! I've been remiss in posting the recipes for the last batch of cocktails, so without further ado:

The Arrow

one jigger cinnamon infused vodka
one jigger creme de cacao
one drop jasmine absolute, 5%
splash of club soda

Give the combined ingredients a
good shake and strain into a chilled martini glass.

Breakfast of Champions

1 jigger honey oat infused vodka
one jigger milk
1 drop sandalwood oil, 10%
1/8 teaspoon chamomile water

Give the combined ingredients a good shake and strain into a
chilled martini glass.

The Barry White

1 jigger star anise infused vodka
1 jigger creme de cacoa
1/2 ounce POM
4 drops blood orange dilution, 10%

Give the combined ingredients a good shake and strain

into a chilled martini glass.

All of the essential oil dilutions and chamomile water can be found at www.herbalalchemy.net.

Winter Cocktail Tasting

2011-02-10T12:32:00.001-05:00

Saturday, February 12th

4 - 6pm

Prospect Wine Shop

322 Seventh Ave. (btwn 8th and 9th)

Park Slope, Brooklyn

www.prospectwine.com

Cinnamon, star anise and oat/honey vodka are featured in this winter's cocktail selection. Stop on by and sample The Arrow, an aphrodisiac blend of cinnamon vodka, homemade creme de cacao and jasmine essence. Along those lines is also The Barry White which is made of star anise vodka, creme de cacao, pomegranate juice and blood orange essential oil. Finally and quite by surprise is The Breakfast of Champions, a luscious concoction of oat and honey infused vodka with milk, chamomile water and sandalwood oil. It's cold out, come have a drink!

Cocktail Lab, Winter 2011

2011-02-08T12:05:00.001-05:00

Last summer I started out the Year in Vodka with some herb infused spirits with fresh floral notes. In the autumn I experimented with dried fruit and nut infusions. This winter I tried my hand at some spices and grain flavored vodka. Cinnamon vodka turned out to be a huge success and it pared nicely with homemade creme de cacao as well as, surprisingly, orange juice. Star anise vodka pared nicely with pomegranite juice creating something that tastes a lot like an old fashioned Good n' Plenty candy. Ginger turned out to be a big disappointment and came out rather dull indeed. A friend picked up some dried persimmon which made a delicious subtly sweet brew, better served alone so as not to mask its subtleness. The surprise concoction was the sweet and satisfying honey and oat vodka. Don't turn your nose up just yet. I found the recipe on Chowhound and it was something they picked up from Blue Hill at Stone Barns.

Star anise floating in vodka

Every season I experiment with a different batch of flavored vodkas. When I'm done I gather some mixers I think might be appropriate, make lots of ice and make sure I have plenty of clean glasses. Then I host an evening with a few women friends which we've come to call Cocktail Lab. All three invited guests - Diane Fargo, Lori Firpo and Rebecca Winzenried - are all well-traveled, been wined and dined and do their fair share of cooking. They are Foodies with sophisticated palettes, a pretty tough crowd. Together we compose a drink which I then shake up for us and split into four short glasses. Then we all taste and discuss. Alterations are made and the next cocktail is attempted and so on and so forth until the recipe has been perfected.

Come and sample the finished creations at the next tasting on Saturday, February 12 from 4 - 6pm at Prospect Wine Shop, 322 Seventh Ave. in Park Slope, Brooklyn.

The Communal Table: Don't Be a Fry Baby!

2010-11-17T23:11:00.001-05:00

On Saturday, November 20th, I'll be presenting at this event. The Communal Table brings art, ideas and activism right to the table. Writers, performers, artists, scientists, chefs and friends come together to talk, listen and share wonderful meals. This event's theme is oil and all of the food is from oil producing countries. There will be discussions about our nation's reliance on oil and the problems surrounding it. I will be talking about essential oils and infusing vodka with them. Join us if you can! This event is a mere $30!

Autumn Cocktails: The Recipes

2010-11-16T18:22:00.001-05:00

Here are the recipes from the latest cocktail tasting. It's hard to say which one was the favorite, everyone had their own. I know the first to run out was the Black Dog but I suspect that's because of the homemade Creme de Cacao. Enjoy!

The Bindi

one jigger pistachio infused vodka
one ounce milk
quarter teaspoon rosewater
one teaspoon agave nectar
one drop clove oil, 20%

Give the combined ingredients a good shake and strain into chilled martini glasses. Finish with grated nutmeg.

Black Dog

2 ounces pear infused vodka
one ounce creme de cacoa
one drop labdanum absolute dilution, 10%
splash of soda

Give the combined ingredients a good shake and strain into a chilled martini glass.

The Kashmere

one jigger fig infused vodka
one jigger pear nectar
two drops coriander oil, 10%
splash of seltzer

Give the combined ingredients a good shake and strain into a chilled martini glass.

All of the essential oil dilutions can be found at www.herbalalchemy.net

Autumn Cocktail Tasting

2010-11-10T09:59:00.001-05:00

Saturday, November 13th

4 - 6pm

Prospect Wine Shop

322 Seventh Ave. (btwn 8th and 9th)

Park Slope, Brooklyn

www.prospectwine.com

This seasons offerings include vodkas that have been macerated with dried fruits and toasted nuts. Come and sample the The Bindi with pistachio vodka, rosewater and clove oil, or the Kashmere with fig vodka, pear nectar and coriander oil. The Black Dog is pear vodka with homemade creme de cacao and the unexpected addition of a dilution of labdanum absolute, a sticky substance with dark amber tones. It adds a mysterious perfumed note to the cacao.

Building a Hoop House

2010-11-08T10:23:00.001-05:00

To extend the growing season my plot neighbor, Janet Murray, and I built a hoop house. It was an ambitious project and we were flying without a net, so to speak. We both did our internet research on hoop houses and cloches and we talked to some other gardeners but we discovered there's not a lot of information out there for gardeners of our caliber, that is to say community garden gardeners. Most of what we saw was way too big for our purposes, or too precious and expensive. We needed something fitting for your average urban victory garden. We decided to put our heads together and build one together on her plot and share it. I had started lettuce in late August and it was coming along nicely so our plan was to transplant my lettuce to her plot, leaving me with the opportunity to amend my soil between now and spring planting season.

It turned out to be a bigger project than we thought so it took two weekends to complete. We met on the first weekend and measured the plot and came up with a lose plan. Then we made our trip to Home Depot and headed straight into the concrete reinforcement area. Straight away we found the perfect material (and if either of us could remember the name of it I'd state it here!). To make the hoop we bought four pieces of ten foot long wire reinforcements. Our idea was to attach the wire supports to a wooden frame of 1 x 2's. After the wire supports were trimmed a couple of feet they were attached to the frame.

Next we set it up in the plot. Then Janet fastened a brace across the top and the plastic was laid over it. Another brace was bolted on top to secure the plastic (and prevent it from blowing off when we're out there harvesting greens in the snow). Then we carefully transplanted my bok choy, Amish bib, red and green oak leaf and Tom Thumb lettuces along with Janet's ginger, black raddish seedlings and Italian greens.

We're proud of our homemade cloche. It's a little rough around the edges but I learned a lot and will be thinking about this design and how to make improvements for next year. In the meantime I should be harvesting lettuce until the end of the year before it gets too cold and dies back. By mid February I can start new lettuce and not long after I can start a tray of vegetables to be transplanted after the last frost. Considering this all cost us about $30, it should pay for itself rather quickly. I'm looking forward to a continued harvest.

Putting the Herb Garden to Bed for Winter

2010-10-26T16:50:00.001-04:00

Harvesting and Drying Roots

I've been the coordinator of the herb garden at 6/15 Green Community Garden for ten years now. When I inherited the job it was a rubble strewn sloping weed patch with a large comfrey plant and a whole lot of lemon balm and mint. I organized some members to double dig it and sift out the rubble. The soil was amended with loads of compost and it was well worth all of the labor. The soil is gorgeous - and if you're someone who loves to garden you know that soil can be gorgeous.

This was a really good year for the herb garden. A lot of plants have gotten more established and are coming into their full glory. Every year we add plants and it's now looking like a full lush garden with plenty of medicinal and culinary herbs. However, the plot needs some order. October is a great time to transplant so fellow member Elizabeth Kalin and I have spent some time the past two weekends working hard on making next summer even better.

We moved larger plants out of the paths so we could get into the plot with greater ease. In so doing we moved the large marshmallow plants. When I dug them up they divided easily so I planted most of them in the back of the plot and took home some roots to dry for winter.

Marshmallow root is a mucilagenous plant that is very soothing for inflammation and ulceration of the stomach and small intestine. It's also useful for dry cough as it soothes the throat and expectorates. It is also the source of the original marshmallow confection. Commercial marshmallows substitute gelatin for the root. I've searched far and wide for a recipe and will try my hand at making the real thing this winter (to have with hot cocoa). In case anyone feels brave and wants to try it:

Marshmallows from Real Marshmallow Root

1/4 cup dried marshmallow root
1 and 3/4 cups sugar
1 and 1/4 T gum tragacanth
2 cups water
2 egg whites, whipped,
2 t rosewater or orange flower water to taste

Simmer the toot in 1 and 1/2 cups of water for about 20 minutes. Soak the gum in 1/2 cup water. Stir the gum vigorously and plop it in the blender and cover and wait until the cooking root has made a slightly mucilaginous tea. Strain out the root liquid into the blender and blend the root liquid with the gum paste very thoroughly. Put this into a saucepan over a very low heat and stir. It will be rubbery and will soften a little. Add the sugar and whisk for a few minutes. Quit when a candy thermometer reads 215. Whip for two minutes. Add the egg whites, beating a bit more to blend. It will be very sticky. "Pour" into a powdered sugar pan and wait to dry. They are crunchy on the outside and melting on the inside when they're done. Refrigerate. (Recipe from lostpastremembered.blogspot.com)

We also dug up some angelica root. The angelica plant has been a great source of amusement this past summer. It was actually the original source of inspiration for making herb infused vodka. The plant is an umbelifer in the same family as celery. The stalk and leaves have a similar flavor and aroma but with a twist. I discovered that it is the main ingredient in Chartreuse. Angelica is good for indigestion, anemia, coughs and colds and is said to be warming.

Angelica root

The plant is in it's fourth year so this season it went to seed, which I collected in late summer. Now it was time to process the dried root. First I scrubbed it clean with a small vegetable brush and let it dry. Then I began to untangle the massive thing and begin slicing it. It's taken several days but I believe it's thoroughly dry now and ready to be stored in a jar for future use. I make a cologne for men from an old recipe called Carmelite Water. Carmelite nuns made it for King Charles the V of France in the 14th Century. It calls for angelica root and I'm so pleased I'll be able to make it with a root I've grown and processed myself.

Angelica seed

Angelica root

http://www.etsy.com/listing/25365753/carmelite-water-by-herbal-alchemy

Custom Perfume Blending Workshop

2010-10-23T10:45:00.001-04:00

In this three hour workshop students will learn the basics of blending and formulation to create their own custom perfume. In a lovely intimate setting each student will gain an understanding of basic techniques and the raw materials used to create their own fragrance. Participants will leave with a quarter ounce bottle of their creation. No prior knowledge is necessary.

Saturday, November 6th
1 - 4pm
Park Slope, Brooklyn

Class is limited to five students
Cost: $150, includes all materials
RSVP to info@herbalalchemy.net

Infusing Vodka with Dried Fruits and Nuts

2010-10-21T21:11:00.001-04:00

An Infusionary Tale

I've spent the better part of the last month brainstorming, shopping, experimenting and finally beginning to imbibe some fruit and nut infused vodkas. After my summer cocktail tasting at Prospect Wine Shop working with herbs and summer fruits, my attention turned to the flavors of autumn and what I'd like to be drinking come October and November. Here it is mid-October and my labors are starting to come to fruition, so to speak.

I began with nut vodkas, knowing that they had to steep longer that fruits or herbs. My favorite nut is a toasted hazelnut so that kicked off the project. I toasted them myself in a dry cast iron skillet on a carefully watched flame. You have to pay attention it never smokes and that the nuts are turned regularly so they don't burn. After a while you can hear the skins crackle and they start to release their aroma and get a bit golden colored. When they get to the desired color transfer them to a bowl to cool thoroughly. Once you can handle them rub the skins off one by one. Now they're ready to be chopped. As you can see these are a labor of love. The end result is worth it. Use about a quarter of a cup of chopped hazelnuts to one cup of vodka. Shake them daily and let sit for about a month before filtering.

Toasting hazelnuts

I also made toasted walnut, almond and pistachio. The walnut was good, nutty but wasn't distinctively walnut. The almond was similar, maybe should be tried without the skins, but was much improved with a splash of pear nectar. The pistachio, however, is divine, although I noticed that it can't age for too long or it can take on a soapy note.

Then I moved on to dried fruits. Pears were a certainty and it turned out beautifully. I had three kinds of figs to test: organic Turkish, pajerero and black mission. The black mission fig vodka is a winner and is a beautiful purple color. The fruit releases it's sweetness without being cloying so they're nice to sip alone or can mix with juice without getting too syrupy. I used roughly about one third cup dried fruit to one cup vodka for about five days.

Black mission fig vodka

After filtering them I got a better idea of what works and what doesn't and made more of the tastier things and drank the rest with friends. Now it was time to play mixologist. I took a good look at my essential oil collection and made up some new dilutions to play with. I've added cardamom, clove, honey absolute, labdanum and sandalwood to the dilutions collection.

I have a lot of experimenting to do but the drinks are starting to take shape for the next tasting on Saturday, November the 13th, between 4pm and 6pm, Prospect Wine Shop, 322 Seventh Avenue between 8th and 9th Streets in Park Slope, Brooklyn. Check out their website at www.prospectwine.com for information on other tastings or stop by to peruse their extensive selection of fine wines and cocktail fixings.

2010-09-26T18:17:00.001-04:00

Cocktails

I've developed a real passion for mixing cocktails lately. It all started with a phone call from my local watering hole. They were trying to conjure up a new summer cocktail with cucumbers and asked me to come down and help out. I had such fun collaborating on that drink and it got me thinking about the ingredients from my apothecary.

Infused Vodka

First I started experimenting with infusing vodka with herbs from my local community garden. I began with angelica which is in the celery family but with a twist. It's one of the main ingredients in Chartreuse. It's been a big hit at garden parties this summer. After spending quite a bit of time on the internet reading about infusing vodka I was surprised by how quickly the vodka took on the flavor. Although I had read that it took weeks to infuse, some were ready in less that 12 hours. I tried to filter them before the herbs released their bitterness. Simply chop up the herbs (I used about six or seven six inch stems of plant material per cup of vodka, discard any brown or damaged parts) and place in a clean glass jar with a tight fitting lid and cover with vodka, shake and test in about eight hours. I tried my hand at lemon verbena, lavender, chocolate mint, lemon thyme, tomato leaf and basil. Angelica was done quicker than most but I hardly left any of them in longer than 24 hours. The exception was the vanilla. Vanilla pods can be sliced and scraped, chopped and added to vodka (I found one pod per cup worked) and leave for at least a month.

Take good notes while you're working. That way you can repeat your efforts when you finds something you really like.

I realize that all of the herbs I worked with might not be available to everyone. Look over the herb selection around you and see what's reasonable. Other herbs would be lemon balm, rose geranium, fennel, shiso, citrus, berries, etc. I made one with cucumber and mint that was interesting, but it might be better in white rum. I also tried a couple of chocolate vodkas.

I took a good hard look at my essential oil collection and came up with a few that might lend themselves to a good cocktail, yet not so ordinary that you couldn't just get the original material (such as orange or peppermint). I've made up dilutions that can readily be mixed into cocktails. A bottle holds about 90 drops and in general you use one drop per drink. You can purchase the dilutions from my website: www.herbalalchemy.net

Then it was a visit to the food coop and local bodega to contemplate juices. What I've come up with are three cocktails that my good friends were happy enough to help me hone.

Summer Crush

1.5 oz. lemon verbena infused vodka
1.5 oz. passion fruit nectar
one drop petitgrain essential oil, 10% dilution

Give the combined ingredients a good shake and strain into a chilled martini glass.

The Silk Route

1.5 oz. apricot nectar
one drop jasmine absolute, 5% dilution
one drop coriander co2, 10% dilution

Give the combined ingredients a good shake and strain into a chilled martini glass.

The Sprite

1.5 oz. basil infused vodka
one drop yuzu essential oil dilution, 10%
one drop black pepper essential oil dilution, 20%
1.5 - 2 oz. tonic water

Shake with ice and pour into a short glass. Garnish with a fresh basil sprig.

More Drink Ideas

At another garden gathering I brought an assortment of infused vodkas for everyone to sample. I also bought four bottles of seltzer and put a tablespoon of rosewater in one, orange blossom water in another, rosemary and chamomile waters in the last two. Guests mixed and matched concoctions and I got a chance to sample quite a few. It would be hard to pick one combination! The flavored seltzers on their own were lovely and refreshing.

And one more cocktail!

After my initial experience with the "Cujito" at Barbes I stopped back in to mix up some more magic. In a collaboration with bartendress Hannah Cheek came the Bloody Hell.

The Bloody Hell

Muddle a few sprigs of mint in about a tablespoon of creme de cacao. Add two ounces of white rum and two drops of blood orange essential oil dilution, 10%. Shake with ice and strain into a chilled martini glass. Outrageous.

Disclaimer: I must unfortunately dampen the mood of this cocktail page by a standard discalimer. These recipes and instructions are purely a tale of how I spent my summer. I don't recommend any of this. Please use caution and discretion. Make sure to know the effects of any herb or essential oil before you begin. Essential oils are intense concentrations so use carefully. None of this is FDA approved. Use only the amounts specified, never use synthetic oils, do not drink essences directly from the bottle, keep away from small children, be cautious of allergies, do not ingest if you are pregnant or nursing. And of course never get behind the wheel of a car after imbibing alcohol.