I had such a great time making colognes this summer, and the results were so successful, that I tried my hand at a couple more. The new brews, Fresh Mown Hay and Bay Rum, did not disappoint.
Fresh Mown Hay is a maceration of sweet woodruff (which is left to rest after harvesting in order to bring out it's distinctive hay like scent), orris root, benzoin, roses, vanilla, lemon verbena, linden blossoms and jasmine flowers. The woodruff not only gives it it's signature scent but also considerable tenacity. It is a rich, lush fragrance with an almost edible quality to it and conjures images of rolling in meadows.
Bay Rum was definitely inspired by the vast bay bushes lining most
of the coastal areas in the New York area. I've been gathering them and
cooking with them for many years and finally came around to making a
fragrance. Over the summer I gathered leaves and dried them (I read
they yield a better fragrance dried) and did my research on formulary
and then started to experiment. Using the rinds of some mandarin
oranges and freshly ground cinnamon, allspice and cloves I was able to
replicate and expand on the traditional scent.
Friday, December 14, 2012
More Cologne Experiments
Labels:
alchemy,
apothecary,
bay,
bay rum,
bayberry,
beach bottles,
botanical cologne,
Brooklyn,
florida water,
foraging,
gift certificate,
hay,
Herbal Alchemy,
jasmine,
lemon verbena,
linden,
orris root,
roses
Tuesday, December 11, 2012
Herbal Liqueurs
Liquore de erbe
- 200 ml alcohol 95%bv
- 500 ml water
- 400 g sugar
- 6 bay leaves
- 1 sprig of rosemary
- 10 mint leaves
- 10 chamomile flowers
- 10 sweet basil leaves
- 10 lemon leaves
- 15 sage leaves
- 3 cloves
- 3 saffron filaments
Also after reading through recipes of many herbal liqueurs made by monks over hundreds of years, I attempted to create my own recipe using mostly herbs grown in the 6/15 Green Community Herb Garden. After harvesting the herbs I chose a few things from my apothecary herb collection and began macerating. After falling in love with Chartreuse earlier in the year I made sure to include a lot of angelica, a principle ingredient in Chartreuese.
Sixfifteen Herb Garden Liqueur
oregano, nine inch stem
chamomile, 30 or so flowers
lemon balm, several handfuls
hyssop, two flowering stems
angelica, half stem
angelica root, one teaspoon
angelica seed, one teaspoon
mint, three large stems
coriander, two flowering tops
rosemary, 9 inch stem
basil, 15 leaves
sage, 4 seven inch stems
dried orange peel, one teaspoon
vanilla, half pod
saffron, five threads
cloves, nine cloves
calamus root, generous half teaspoon
wormwood, dried, three generous pinches
cinnamon, one small stick
orris root powder, half rounded teaspoon
mace, quarter teaspoon
lavender, eight stems
red clover, eight blossoms
yarrow flowers, one flower head
Steep all ingredients in vodka to cover for at least 30 days. Sweeten to taste with simple syrup and age two months.
Overall both liqueurs came out very good and quite palatable. I'll keep trying in the years to come but this holiday season I'll be very pleased to serve my guests a little cordial straight from my garden after a full meal.
Labels:
alchemy,
angelica,
apothecary,
basil,
Brooklyn,
chamomile,
clove,
herb garden,
herbal,
lemon,
lemon balm,
liqueur,
mint,
oregano,
recipe,
rosemary,
saffron,
sage,
vanilla
Wednesday, November 21, 2012
A Nice Review of my Perfume Blending Class
A young woman approached me after my last Natural Perfume Blending class at 3rd Ward who had been sent to take the class from Brooklyn Magazine. She had a few of questions and we exchanged contact info. I was so incredibly delighted to read the review she sent me today from their blog.
I was most pleased to read that "Everyone in the class was really engaged and took notes and participated in the class in a way that was, frankly, really fun to be a part of", and that she though of me as "a lively, informative presence during the class, which she starts off with a history of perfume that manages to be both comprehensive and easy-to-follow for the novice.". What I hope most about my classes is that they're informative and fun. It's nice to receive some validation that I'm getting it right.
I was most pleased to read that "Everyone in the class was really engaged and took notes and participated in the class in a way that was, frankly, really fun to be a part of", and that she though of me as "a lively, informative presence during the class, which she starts off with a history of perfume that manages to be both comprehensive and easy-to-follow for the novice.". What I hope most about my classes is that they're informative and fun. It's nice to receive some validation that I'm getting it right.
Wednesday, November 7, 2012
Elderflower Liqueur
I posted during the summer about my forays into making elderflower liqueur. Since then the macerated vodka has been sitting on a shelf waiting for me to pay some attention to it and turn it into a liqueur. I had nearly a wine bottle full of elderflower vodka and a small bottle of St.-Germain to compare and contrast with my creation.
At the onset the macerated elderflower vodka that I made has a dankness to it, a very green note, one that would lock with clary sage, or lavender absolute. At first I thought it was a honeyed note that was missing so I sweetened a small batch with Lancaster County, PA, honey. The dankness in the honey locked with that of the elderflower so that experiment was set aside.
The second experiment I sweetened with white sugar. In the past I've used raw cane crystals instead of sugar but they add a slight mollasses flavor to the brew, as well as an unpleasant dark colored slimy layer that floats to the top of the bottle as it clarifies. I'm hoping for a better result with white sugar.
After doing a bit more research in elderflower liqueur I noticed that most of the recipes call for lemons or lemon rinds during maceration, often recommending meyer lemons. Last winter I made meyer lemon vodka so I did a little tweaking with it. I also took a look at my collection of perfume oils and decided on four notes to be added; yuzu, wild sweet orange, neroli and peru balsam. I made 10% solutions of each oil and added them one or two drops at a time.
Also in my research I learned that most people make an elderflower syrup and then add alcohol to produce a liqueur. I confirmed this yesterday with a Swiss friend who explained to me how this was done in her country. Some of the recipes I read also called for fresh lemon balm.
Many trials later I've come up with something I think is truly worth sipping. I even "fixed" the first and second versions and bottled them separately. The recipe is a little rough but I think I have a much firmer idea of how to proceed next season. In the meantime I think a cocktail of elderflower liqueur and champagne would be perfect for the holidays.
At the onset the macerated elderflower vodka that I made has a dankness to it, a very green note, one that would lock with clary sage, or lavender absolute. At first I thought it was a honeyed note that was missing so I sweetened a small batch with Lancaster County, PA, honey. The dankness in the honey locked with that of the elderflower so that experiment was set aside.
The second experiment I sweetened with white sugar. In the past I've used raw cane crystals instead of sugar but they add a slight mollasses flavor to the brew, as well as an unpleasant dark colored slimy layer that floats to the top of the bottle as it clarifies. I'm hoping for a better result with white sugar.
After doing a bit more research in elderflower liqueur I noticed that most of the recipes call for lemons or lemon rinds during maceration, often recommending meyer lemons. Last winter I made meyer lemon vodka so I did a little tweaking with it. I also took a look at my collection of perfume oils and decided on four notes to be added; yuzu, wild sweet orange, neroli and peru balsam. I made 10% solutions of each oil and added them one or two drops at a time.
Also in my research I learned that most people make an elderflower syrup and then add alcohol to produce a liqueur. I confirmed this yesterday with a Swiss friend who explained to me how this was done in her country. Some of the recipes I read also called for fresh lemon balm.
Many trials later I've come up with something I think is truly worth sipping. I even "fixed" the first and second versions and bottled them separately. The recipe is a little rough but I think I have a much firmer idea of how to proceed next season. In the meantime I think a cocktail of elderflower liqueur and champagne would be perfect for the holidays.
Elderflower Liqueur
2 3/4 cups elderflower vodka
1/8 cup meyer lemon vodka
scant 3/4 cup sugar
5/8 cups water
13 drops yuzu dilution, 10%
15 drops peru balsam dilution, 10%
4 drops neroli bigarade dilution, 10%
6 drops wild sweet orange dilution, !0%
Labels:
alchemy,
apothecary,
Brooklyn,
cocktails,
elderflower,
essential oils,
foraging,
infused vodka,
infusion,
Julianne Zaleta,
liqueur,
meyer lemon,
neroli,
peru balsam,
recipe,
yuzu
Monday, November 5, 2012
Natural Perfume Blending Workshop, Part Two
This coming Saturday I'll be teaching part two of my perfumery course. The class is for students who have taken the first class in Natural
Perfume Blending but want to further their blending skills. The original
kit of 50 or so oils will be added to with some rare and precious oils
such as ambrette, hay absolute, tuberose, yuzu and pink pepper. The
concepts of locking and burying will be explored and there will be
specific assignments to deepen your understanding of blending and
perfume creation, as well as sharpen your sense of smell.
Saturday, November 10th
1:30 to 4:30
3rd Ward
195 Morgan Ave.
Brooklyn, NY
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Acorn Flour
Last year a good friend went through the laborious process of making acorn flour. I was intrigued, being the urban forager that I am, but definitely put off by the amount of work. Then she showed up one day with a slice of bread she'd made and I've been determined to try making it ever since. The flavor was so intense, rich and flavorful so I was surprised that she only used a third of a cup of the flour along with a melange of unbleached white and whole wheat.
It's acorn season and I've been getting an education in oak trees. I've learned to identify white oaks, which apparently are some of the sweetest acorns to find. They're also a substantial size making them worth shucking. I've collected a couple of pounds from three trees up in Prospect Park and am planning to go back for more. I can already tell that this hefty bag of acorns is only going to make a small amount of flour, so as long as I'm putting in the time I might as well go all the way and collect more.
I've gotten a lot of information on how to do this from Hank Shaw of Hunter Angler Gardener Cook. His biggest piece of advice on collecting them was to look for little worm holes and discard those. Acorns are bitter from their high tannin content and the tannin has to be leached out. I've seen a lot of different versions on how to do this but his cold water leaching method seems to be the most reasonable.
First you have to shuck the acorns - under water! With the pointed end facing up I used a hammer to crack the acorns and then threw them into a pan of water. The hulls are kind of elastic so some come off the nut quite easily while others need to be wrestled with. Then I threw them in a blender filled with a couple of cups of water. When I had about two cups of acorns in there I blended them up to make what looks like a coffee milkshake. The sludge was then transferred into a large jar and filled with more water and put in the refrigerator. Every day I poured off the water and added more, shook it up and placed it back in the 'fridge. I did this for a week and then lined a colander with cheesecloth and poured the whole mess through. Pulling the edges of the cheesecloth together I gently squeezed out as much water as I could.
Now the goal is to dry out the mass. Spread it evenly on a cookie sheet (preferably one with sides) and set the oven on low. Mine doesn't have a low setting so I warmed it to the lowest temperature and then turned it off and set the cookie sheet inside. You don't want to bake the acorns, just dry them out so keep your eye on them. It took a couple of hours of turning the oven on and off and checking periodically before it was ready. I used a coffee grinder free of coffee residue to grind the dried mass into flour. I have a separate one I use for spices so this worked perfectly. In small batches try to grind the flour as fine as possible.
It's a lot of work for a small amount of flour, that's for sure. While the first batch was drying in the oven I started shucking the second batch. I figure I have three more trials to go and I'm hoping to be done in time for holiday baking. I'll let you know how it goes, and whether it's worth the labor. If it's as delicious as I remember I'll be thoroughly gratified. Hank Shaw also has some delicious sounding recipes on his blog which you can find here.
It's acorn season and I've been getting an education in oak trees. I've learned to identify white oaks, which apparently are some of the sweetest acorns to find. They're also a substantial size making them worth shucking. I've collected a couple of pounds from three trees up in Prospect Park and am planning to go back for more. I can already tell that this hefty bag of acorns is only going to make a small amount of flour, so as long as I'm putting in the time I might as well go all the way and collect more.
I've gotten a lot of information on how to do this from Hank Shaw of Hunter Angler Gardener Cook. His biggest piece of advice on collecting them was to look for little worm holes and discard those. Acorns are bitter from their high tannin content and the tannin has to be leached out. I've seen a lot of different versions on how to do this but his cold water leaching method seems to be the most reasonable.
First you have to shuck the acorns - under water! With the pointed end facing up I used a hammer to crack the acorns and then threw them into a pan of water. The hulls are kind of elastic so some come off the nut quite easily while others need to be wrestled with. Then I threw them in a blender filled with a couple of cups of water. When I had about two cups of acorns in there I blended them up to make what looks like a coffee milkshake. The sludge was then transferred into a large jar and filled with more water and put in the refrigerator. Every day I poured off the water and added more, shook it up and placed it back in the 'fridge. I did this for a week and then lined a colander with cheesecloth and poured the whole mess through. Pulling the edges of the cheesecloth together I gently squeezed out as much water as I could.
Now the goal is to dry out the mass. Spread it evenly on a cookie sheet (preferably one with sides) and set the oven on low. Mine doesn't have a low setting so I warmed it to the lowest temperature and then turned it off and set the cookie sheet inside. You don't want to bake the acorns, just dry them out so keep your eye on them. It took a couple of hours of turning the oven on and off and checking periodically before it was ready. I used a coffee grinder free of coffee residue to grind the dried mass into flour. I have a separate one I use for spices so this worked perfectly. In small batches try to grind the flour as fine as possible.
It's a lot of work for a small amount of flour, that's for sure. While the first batch was drying in the oven I started shucking the second batch. I figure I have three more trials to go and I'm hoping to be done in time for holiday baking. I'll let you know how it goes, and whether it's worth the labor. If it's as delicious as I remember I'll be thoroughly gratified. Hank Shaw also has some delicious sounding recipes on his blog which you can find here.
Saturday, September 29, 2012
Beach Glass Bottles
Green glass vials from the beaches of Brooklyn. |
Two perfume bottles |
Amber vials |
A collection of tiny vials |
Beach glass bottles put to use for my cologne collection. |
Friday, September 28, 2012
Park Perfumes Review
The online gardening magazine Soiled and Seeded, dedicated to cultivating a garden culture, has been so kind as to review my trio of Park Perfumes. This is some of my earliest work and includes some synthetic oils that I couldn't get in nature. I'm in the process of revising those perfumes using only natural oils and utilizing some of the skills and experience I've accumulated over the past ten years. The first to be finished is The Ambergill which formerly used a synthetic amber note.
After extensively researching amber I discovered that there is no real amber oil extracted from a plant. There is a pine tree in India that exudes a sap that a lot of it starts from, but then many processes occur and a proprietary blend of oils and macerations are added to create amber in many forms. Some are crystalized in beezwax so a mere touch melts on the fingertips. These blends are closely guarded secret formulas.
I've had a bottle of amber oil for many years that I bought from the Persian perfume vendors on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. I knew that it was probably adulterated with synthetic materials but I liked that warm velvety chord and couldn't be deprived. This year I made my own proprietary blend with absolutes and essential oils. I'm happy to have come up with a blend I can use in my perfumes without resorting to it's synthetic counterpart. From that I've created a scented Amber Oil.
I've had a bottle of amber oil for many years that I bought from the Persian perfume vendors on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. I knew that it was probably adulterated with synthetic materials but I liked that warm velvety chord and couldn't be deprived. This year I made my own proprietary blend with absolutes and essential oils. I'm happy to have come up with a blend I can use in my perfumes without resorting to it's synthetic counterpart. From that I've created a scented Amber Oil.
Now that I had an amber chord to work with I went ahead and recreated The Ambergill, a perfume inspired by the beautiful Ambergill ravine and falls in the Prospect Park in Brooklyn, NY. A gill is a narrow stream-filled glen, which feeds a grotto known as the Amergill Pool, whose banks are populated by green herons, columbine, wild roses & blackberries. Amber, oakmoss & neroli are the peak notes of this warm perfume.
Monday, August 20, 2012
Cologne Experiment Results
The results are in! My experiments macerating dried flowers, roost, rinds and herbs are completed and I have detailed notes on the results. After a month's time the liquor was strained off and clarified and then some were matched with hydrosols. Certain recipes didn't work at all and were discarded but most of them yielded results. I was really surprised by the tenacity of the different brews, some of them will last days on a tester strip.
Summer Splash came as a real surprise. The floral note that resulted from roses and lavender macerating with vetiver, sweet annie and orange peel was astonishing. It was blended with lemon balm hydrosol to create a summery splash. This one changes over time in a most interesting way.
Florida Water epitomizes summer for me. There is a large Latino community intermingled in my Brooklyn neighborhood and a lot of the pharmacies cater to this clientelle so are stocked with Florida Water. I have memories of my first years in Brooklyn discovering the pleasures of an evening shower followed with a splash of Florida Water. Orange blossom and clove are the distinctive notes in the cologne so I decided orange blossom hydrosol would be used with a maceration of meyer lemon rind, sweet woodruff, lavender, benzoin, cinnamon and clove. The results smell surprisingly like the water I used all those years ago, and I think it could be considered suitable for men as well as women.
Verbena Water is the result of macerating fresh lemon verbena and sweet woodruff from my garden, dried jasmine, linden blossoms and vanilla pods and then mixed with verbena hydrosol. It's as fresh as it sounds, the softness of the woodruff and vanilla pared with lemon verbena counterbalance each other beautifully.
Rose Garden is a blend of dried roses, angelica root, jasmine, vanilla pods and lemon verbena which was then mixed with rosewater to create a veritable rose garden in a bottle.
Violet Water is the result of orris root, sweet woodruff, benzoin and jasmine marrying beautifully to create a woodland violet sort of fragrance which was then blended with cornflower water. Violets contain a chemical called ionones which give them their characteristic fragrance. Orris root, the dried and aged rhizome of the Iris pallida, also contains ionones but also has a woodland quality to it. There are no violets in this blend so the name is merely a suggestion.
Each cologne is bottled in a one of a kind vintage glass bottle collected from the beaches of Brooklyn, NY. They've been scrubbed clean and sterilized but they're old and scratched to different degrees. Expect some wear from tumbling in the ocean for who knows how long.
Summer Splash came as a real surprise. The floral note that resulted from roses and lavender macerating with vetiver, sweet annie and orange peel was astonishing. It was blended with lemon balm hydrosol to create a summery splash. This one changes over time in a most interesting way.
Florida Water epitomizes summer for me. There is a large Latino community intermingled in my Brooklyn neighborhood and a lot of the pharmacies cater to this clientelle so are stocked with Florida Water. I have memories of my first years in Brooklyn discovering the pleasures of an evening shower followed with a splash of Florida Water. Orange blossom and clove are the distinctive notes in the cologne so I decided orange blossom hydrosol would be used with a maceration of meyer lemon rind, sweet woodruff, lavender, benzoin, cinnamon and clove. The results smell surprisingly like the water I used all those years ago, and I think it could be considered suitable for men as well as women.
Verbena Water is the result of macerating fresh lemon verbena and sweet woodruff from my garden, dried jasmine, linden blossoms and vanilla pods and then mixed with verbena hydrosol. It's as fresh as it sounds, the softness of the woodruff and vanilla pared with lemon verbena counterbalance each other beautifully.
Rose Garden is a blend of dried roses, angelica root, jasmine, vanilla pods and lemon verbena which was then mixed with rosewater to create a veritable rose garden in a bottle.
Violet Water is the result of orris root, sweet woodruff, benzoin and jasmine marrying beautifully to create a woodland violet sort of fragrance which was then blended with cornflower water. Violets contain a chemical called ionones which give them their characteristic fragrance. Orris root, the dried and aged rhizome of the Iris pallida, also contains ionones but also has a woodland quality to it. There are no violets in this blend so the name is merely a suggestion.
Each cologne is bottled in a one of a kind vintage glass bottle collected from the beaches of Brooklyn, NY. They've been scrubbed clean and sterilized but they're old and scratched to different degrees. Expect some wear from tumbling in the ocean for who knows how long.
Labels:
alchemy,
apothecary,
bay,
bay rum,
bayberry,
beach bottles,
botanical cologne,
Brooklyn,
florida water,
foraging,
gift certificate,
hay,
Herbal Alchemy,
jasmine,
lemon verbena,
linden,
orris root,
roses
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Making Elderflower Liqueur
Elderflowers macerating in vodka |
Elderflowers grow all over Prospect Park and another artisanal cocktail enthusiast told me that he'd made his own liqueur from the flowers in the park. I made a point of getting together with another friend, a local forager and farmer, to hunt for the blossoms. Armed with wildflower guides we set out and identified plenty of look a likes but came home empty handed. A second foray found what we were looking for.
Labels:
alchemy,
apothecary,
Brooklyn,
cocktails,
elderflower,
essential oils,
foraging,
infused vodka,
infusion,
Julianne Zaleta,
liqueur,
meyer lemon,
neroli,
peru balsam,
recipe,
yuzu
Thursday, August 2, 2012
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
Vintage Chartreuse
The true find was a 3/4 full bottle of Chartreuse. I've been doing a lot of research the past few years on herbal liqueurs and amaros and have read abbreviated versions of many of the old recipes. Of all of the old formulas Chartreuse is the only one still made by Carthusian monks. They have been making it continuously since 1605. Other liqueurs have claimed to be made by monks but in reality are made by large companies. Benedictine, for instance, is an invention of Alexandre Le Grand who made up the story of the liqueur being a medicinal recipe of the Benedictine Monks in Normandy.
Chartruese is a secret recipe of more than 130 herbs and "secret ingredients". The formula is based on a recipe for an elixir of long life from an alchemical manuscript given to the monks. The monks intended their liqueur to be used as medicine but the beverage became so popular that in 1764 the recipe was adapted to what is now Green Chartreuse. In 1838 they developed Yellow Chartreuse, a sweeter version colored with saffron. Only two monks have the recipe at any one time and they are the only ones who prepare the herbal mixture.
I took the vintage bottle to my local watering hole, the magical Barbes in Park Slope, one Saturday afternoon and presented it to the bartender who expertly removed the rotting cork without getting any in the bottle. We poured a glass of the vintage and a fresh glass from the bar. To my amazement there was a woman sitting at the bar who had just written a paper on Chartreuse for her French class. I sat with her comparing the two liqueurs and taking notes on anything that jumped out at me. Each sip revealed something new. One sip would coat my mouth in angelica, the next in mace, then mint, then vanilla as I swallow. I know that Chartreuse is sweetened with honey which is much more apparent in the vintage bottle.
I've been macerating herbs for the past couple of months to make herbal liqueurs. One of them, a creation of my own which reflects the herb garden at 6/15 Green Community Garden, has a strong similarity to Chartreuse. Angelica is the predominant note in chartreuse and the garden happens to have a healthy specimen. I used the fresh green leaf and stalk, dried root that I dug up last fall and the seed I had collected. I used nearly every other herb growing in the herb patch including chamomile, lemon balm, hyssop, mint, rosemary, basil and sage and fresh spices from the Park Slope Food Coop like cloves, mace and saffron as well as some dried herbs from my collection. This is my second year in a row creating a liqueur from the garden and I'm hoping this year's will be better for the few tweaks I made in the recipe. It's strained now and aging while I ponder which honey to use. I'm hoping to get some local Brooklyn honey at the farmer's market to keep it as local as possible. I'll be serving my elixir come holiday time.
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Cologne Experiments
I'm having way too much fun riding out the heatwave researching old forumlary on the internet in search of cologne and toilet water recipes. After years of collecting fragrant herbs, dried flowers, roots, powdered gums, tree resins, barks, citrus rinds and spices I wanted to see if macerating in vodka would produce results. All of the old recipes I found used essential oils, absolutes and tinctures but I wanted to see what I could come up with with just the raw ingredients.
I've started two traditional cologne recipes, a violet water, something akin to 4711 and a Florida Water, as well as one true experiment. It's been about ten days and I can already tell which ones have promise and staying power. My plan is to let them sit for 30 days and then strain them off, filter them and let them settle. Then I'll pour off the clear liquor and blend it with hydrosol.
When deciding on what to use for each experiment I'm still thinking like a perfumer and making sure I have top, middle and bottom notes. I've been aging some orris root powder for a number of years now and it's developing a subtle sweetness that I hope the tincuring will release. I also have powdered benzoin, cedar bark, vanilla pods and vetiver roots to play with. Dried roses and lavender make up the bulk of the heart note but I'm also using a generous supply of jasmine sambac flowers that I've dried over the past year. The linden blossoms that I collected last year have found their way into one as well. For top notes I have citrus rinds that I dried over last winter including mineola tangerine and meyer lemon. From my herb garden I've added sweet woodruff, lemon verbena, lavender, basil, sweet annie and rosemary.
So far I'm loving the process and the romance of it all. When I was a child my grandmother bought me some cologne that I used as a kind of splash. I have such fond memories of warm summer nights splashing on her cologne after a bath and going to sleep smelling sweetly.
I'm also enjoying using the fruits of my labor over the years, and feeling like a real apothecary. I looked around during the process and thought that it looked like a film set of an apothecary at work, yet it wasn't contrived at all. I find I'm repeating to myself, "oh, true apothecary".
I've started two traditional cologne recipes, a violet water, something akin to 4711 and a Florida Water, as well as one true experiment. It's been about ten days and I can already tell which ones have promise and staying power. My plan is to let them sit for 30 days and then strain them off, filter them and let them settle. Then I'll pour off the clear liquor and blend it with hydrosol.
When deciding on what to use for each experiment I'm still thinking like a perfumer and making sure I have top, middle and bottom notes. I've been aging some orris root powder for a number of years now and it's developing a subtle sweetness that I hope the tincuring will release. I also have powdered benzoin, cedar bark, vanilla pods and vetiver roots to play with. Dried roses and lavender make up the bulk of the heart note but I'm also using a generous supply of jasmine sambac flowers that I've dried over the past year. The linden blossoms that I collected last year have found their way into one as well. For top notes I have citrus rinds that I dried over last winter including mineola tangerine and meyer lemon. From my herb garden I've added sweet woodruff, lemon verbena, lavender, basil, sweet annie and rosemary.
So far I'm loving the process and the romance of it all. When I was a child my grandmother bought me some cologne that I used as a kind of splash. I have such fond memories of warm summer nights splashing on her cologne after a bath and going to sleep smelling sweetly.
I'm also enjoying using the fruits of my labor over the years, and feeling like a real apothecary. I looked around during the process and thought that it looked like a film set of an apothecary at work, yet it wasn't contrived at all. I find I'm repeating to myself, "oh, true apothecary".
Labels:
alchemy,
apothecary,
bay,
bay rum,
bayberry,
beach bottles,
botanical cologne,
Brooklyn,
florida water,
foraging,
gift certificate,
hay,
Herbal Alchemy,
jasmine,
lemon verbena,
linden,
orris root,
roses
Monday, July 9, 2012
Cocktail Lab, Summer 2012
Lychee vodka being filtered |
After some seriously delicious cocktails at NoMad with Lucy, the author Alyssa Harad, and Maria McElroy of Aroma M Perfumes it was decided that Maria and I would come up with two cocktails based on two of her perfumes. She decided on Geisha Blanche and Geisha Green, Blanche being a fresh, summery fragrance of white flowers and lychee, while Green is a creative take on absinthe, although mellowed with black currant, mandarin and violet.
Lychees macerating in vodka for First Blush |
For Geisha Blanche we settled on lychee vodka to start. After struggling to find a good mixer that would still fit the fragrance profile we settled on champagne with a little lychee juice. We decided on tuberose and jasmine to mimic the white flowers in the perfume which are added to the drink as well as misted over the top before serving. We call it First Blush
Black currant vodka was the basis for our rendition of Geisha Green. Boylan's Creme Soda was the perfect compliment and picked up the tonka note in the perfume beautifully. Wormwood and the natural isolate alpha ionone (with the characteristic scent of violet) were added to tone down the sweetness of the drink and pick up the absinthe notes of the perfume. Meet Jaded!
First Blush
one jigger lychee vodka
one generous jigger lychee juice (Ceres brand)
one jigger champagne
two drops jasmine dilution, 5%
two drops tuberose dilution, 5%
spray of tuberose and jasmine
Combine the vodka, juice and dilutions in a shaker, mix well and add champagne. Pour into a martini glass and spray with tuberose and jasmine.
Jaded
one jigger black currant vodka
two ounces Boyland Creme Soda
one drop alpha ionone dilution, 10%
one drop wormwood dilution, 5%
Combine the ingredients in a cocktail shaker, shake well and serve strained in a martini glass.
Black currant vodka is made by finely chopping 1/3 cup dried black currants and pouring one cup of vodka over them in a jar with a tight fitting lid. Shake daily and macerate for up to one month. Strain and store in an airtight bottle.
Lychee vodka is made by peeling and chopping 1/3 cup fresh lychees (including any juice) and placing them in a jar with a tight fitting lid. Pour one cup vodka over and shake daily for up to two weeks. Strain and store.
Monday, June 25, 2012
A Little Love from CBS!
A perfumer's scent organ |
A consultation consists of a little getting to know you, an explanation of how perfumes are built using top, middle and bottom notes and then in a step by step process learn how to blend a selection of scents into your own personal perfume. Choose from over one hundred essential oils and absolutes, some rare and exotic, to create a fragrance that is uniquely yours.
Consultations usually take about an hour and a half and are $125/hr and include a quarter ounce bottle of perfume. By appointment only, (718)788-6480, info@herbalalchemy.net
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
Summer Workshops Announced
Three new Natural Perfume Workshops have just been booked for 3rd Ward in Brooklyn. Classes fill up fast so sign up early! Classes are scheduled for
Saturday, June 9, 1:30 to 4:30
Sunday, July 22, 1:30 to 4:30
Saturday, August 11, 1:30 to 4:30
The sense of smell is so neglected, take an opportunity to develop yours and broaden your scent horizons!
Saturday, June 9, 1:30 to 4:30
Sunday, July 22, 1:30 to 4:30
Saturday, August 11, 1:30 to 4:30
The sense of smell is so neglected, take an opportunity to develop yours and broaden your scent horizons!
Wednesday, May 9, 2012
Verbena Water
The newest hydrosol I've added to my collection is Verbena, Aloysia triphylla, also known as Vervain. For those of you that don't know, a hydrosol is the water that's left over from the distillation process that creates essential oils. They have microparticles of the original plant material and are scented, flavorful and have many therapeutic properties.
Verbena herb is known for it's effects in dispelling depression and countering nervous exhaustion and anxiety. Great for headaches and migraines and is said to be one of the best palliatives for the onset of colds and flu. It is reputed to be a good daily mouthwash as it's strong anti-inflammatory ability has a strong affinity for the mucus membranes of the mouth and nose.
Internally it will settle a nervous stomach and indigestion, as well as being very pleasant to drink. A tablespoon of hydrosol in a liter of seltzer is wonderfully refreshing. It could also be added to a pot of tea. It's flavor is distinctly lemon but not citrusy, and much less potent. Imagine it in desserts, or with seafood.
Verbena's pH is very close to that of the acid mantle of the skin making it a good clarifier. It refines skin texture and may reduce pore size. It seems to suit men as an aftershave since the scent is neither floral nor fruity.
Verbena Water by Herbal Alchemy can be bought here.
Verbena herb is known for it's effects in dispelling depression and countering nervous exhaustion and anxiety. Great for headaches and migraines and is said to be one of the best palliatives for the onset of colds and flu. It is reputed to be a good daily mouthwash as it's strong anti-inflammatory ability has a strong affinity for the mucus membranes of the mouth and nose.
Internally it will settle a nervous stomach and indigestion, as well as being very pleasant to drink. A tablespoon of hydrosol in a liter of seltzer is wonderfully refreshing. It could also be added to a pot of tea. It's flavor is distinctly lemon but not citrusy, and much less potent. Imagine it in desserts, or with seafood.
Verbena's pH is very close to that of the acid mantle of the skin making it a good clarifier. It refines skin texture and may reduce pore size. It seems to suit men as an aftershave since the scent is neither floral nor fruity.
Verbena Water by Herbal Alchemy can be bought here.
Tuesday, May 8, 2012
Sweet Woodruff
Sweet Woodruff growing in the 6/15 Green Herb Garden |
The wine was meant to be drunk on May Day and I never got the timing right again and so never made it again. It's a shame that I denied myself all those years simply because I couldn't drink it on the actual day. This year, with spring coming early, I had a chance to catch it in time, not to make May Wine, but to make liqueur.
Sweet Woodruff (Asperula odorata) was used as a medicine in the Middle Ages, mostly as either a poltice for cuts and wounds or a strong decoction for stomach troubles. It is known mostly for its sweet scent due to its high coumarin content, the chemical known for giving new mown hay its distinctive odor. Bundles and garlands of woodruff were hung around the house in the heat of summer to "attemper the air, cool and make fresh the place, to the delight and comfort of such as are therein" and is reported to "make a man merry" according to Gerard. The dried herb may also be kept among linens to sweeten them and protect them from insects. It was also once used to stuff beds.
Sweet Woodruff drying on parchment |
Three batches of Sweet Woodruff Vodka |
Friday, May 4, 2012
Spring Foraging Inspires (What Else?) New Cocktails
I took a long walk in Prospect Park last week with fellow naturalist and forager Josh Kalin in search of elderflowers in hopes of making elderflower liqueur. With a little internet research I learned a few ways of creating it and how to identify the plant. Unfortunately our search wound up empty, at least as far as elderflower was concerned. We determined that the flowers weren't open yet and made arrangements to hunt again another day.
Not to be deterred we walked on and started hunting for other bounty. The park is loaded with garlic mustard, a non-native "weed" that the park would rather eradicate. It's one of the plants I don't feel any hesitation about harvesting knowing that it does more good than harm. We also harvested violet leaves and flowers, curly dock and gout weed, and stopped to sample a few other things along the way as well.
Still, I had cocktails in mind, or at least the macerated elixirs that plants and spirits engender. I remember long ago chomping on sassafras along the Long Meadow. Josh remembered another sassafras tree in a wooded area and took us to the spot where he'd harvested before to make a sassafras root liqueur. We climbed over a lot (I mean a lot) of downed trees from last year's tornado, as well as some of the other violent storms we've had the past year, looking for the small saplings that sprout but die soon after since there's not enough light to sustain them, all the while tripping over tree branches.
I picked both leaves and pulled up sapling roots. The leaves I left to dry overnight since they seemed very watery. The roots I gently scrubbed clean and left to dry overnight. Then they were carefully cut up with my garden clippers as a knife didn't seem to do it. They've been sitting in vodka for over a week now and I think I'll leave it a bit longer. So far it smells earthy, licorice-y and definitely has notes of root beer. The leaf I filtered the next day. It's incredibly dark and viscous, I can't even see through the bottle. I filtered it six days ago and there's no sediment and it hasn't clarified at all. It tastes really nice, tho, and very different from the root. I'm thinking sassafras and soda's in the garden this summer.
The best recent discovery was the sweet woodruff in the herb garden, but that's another story for later.
Not to be deterred we walked on and started hunting for other bounty. The park is loaded with garlic mustard, a non-native "weed" that the park would rather eradicate. It's one of the plants I don't feel any hesitation about harvesting knowing that it does more good than harm. We also harvested violet leaves and flowers, curly dock and gout weed, and stopped to sample a few other things along the way as well.
Still, I had cocktails in mind, or at least the macerated elixirs that plants and spirits engender. I remember long ago chomping on sassafras along the Long Meadow. Josh remembered another sassafras tree in a wooded area and took us to the spot where he'd harvested before to make a sassafras root liqueur. We climbed over a lot (I mean a lot) of downed trees from last year's tornado, as well as some of the other violent storms we've had the past year, looking for the small saplings that sprout but die soon after since there's not enough light to sustain them, all the while tripping over tree branches.
I picked both leaves and pulled up sapling roots. The leaves I left to dry overnight since they seemed very watery. The roots I gently scrubbed clean and left to dry overnight. Then they were carefully cut up with my garden clippers as a knife didn't seem to do it. They've been sitting in vodka for over a week now and I think I'll leave it a bit longer. So far it smells earthy, licorice-y and definitely has notes of root beer. The leaf I filtered the next day. It's incredibly dark and viscous, I can't even see through the bottle. I filtered it six days ago and there's no sediment and it hasn't clarified at all. It tastes really nice, tho, and very different from the root. I'm thinking sassafras and soda's in the garden this summer.
The best recent discovery was the sweet woodruff in the herb garden, but that's another story for later.
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
May Day Violets
When I was a child my mother smelled of violets. She wore Yardley April Violets and when Yardley stopped making it my father went on a mission to hunt down any remaining bottles. As a compensation I always buy my mother violet scented things for her birthday, Christmas, Mother's Day, etc. A few years ago Yardley made a limited edition and I was able to buy some for her for Christmas. My mom is not an overly emotional woman but I think I saw her tear up.
Violets are a funny little plant. The violets native to this area are lovely but have no discernable fragrance. If you're lucky enough to find a patch of viola odorata, the sweetly scented violet, you can have one good whiff before the ionones in the plant will knock out your sense of smell for a while. Another funny thing about the violet is that the pretty purple "flower" they send up in the spring is really not the plant's true flower at all. The true flower with all the sexual parts comes up late in the summer. They're white and form at the base of the plant and are loaded with seeds. The purple flower in the spring is just for show!
Violet leaves, with their heart shape, are nice to nibble on in the spring in a salad, as well as the non-sexual flowers. A salad dotted with violets is a lovely thing indeed. Violet leaves are mucilaginous meaning that they coat and soothe tissues when taken internally. They are also known to break up cysts and masses, particular to the breast. I usually harvest leaves late in the summer just before the true flower comes out and leave them to dry for tisane.
My mom and her best friend, Pat Harvey, used to pick them when they were neighbors on the same street when they were young mothers back in the '50's. I got to sit next to Pat at a wedding this past weekend and reminded her of this. So this post is for my mom and her best friend, Happy May Day!
Violets are a funny little plant. The violets native to this area are lovely but have no discernable fragrance. If you're lucky enough to find a patch of viola odorata, the sweetly scented violet, you can have one good whiff before the ionones in the plant will knock out your sense of smell for a while. Another funny thing about the violet is that the pretty purple "flower" they send up in the spring is really not the plant's true flower at all. The true flower with all the sexual parts comes up late in the summer. They're white and form at the base of the plant and are loaded with seeds. The purple flower in the spring is just for show!
Violet leaves, with their heart shape, are nice to nibble on in the spring in a salad, as well as the non-sexual flowers. A salad dotted with violets is a lovely thing indeed. Violet leaves are mucilaginous meaning that they coat and soothe tissues when taken internally. They are also known to break up cysts and masses, particular to the breast. I usually harvest leaves late in the summer just before the true flower comes out and leave them to dry for tisane.
My mom and her best friend, Pat Harvey, used to pick them when they were neighbors on the same street when they were young mothers back in the '50's. I got to sit next to Pat at a wedding this past weekend and reminded her of this. So this post is for my mom and her best friend, Happy May Day!
Monday, April 30, 2012
New Perfume Workshop Announced at New York Botanical Garden
I'm so pleased that I'll be participating in the New York Botanical Garden's Adult Education program this Spring and Summer. I'll be teaching two classes, Natural Perfume Blending on Saturday, May 19th and Aromatherapy 101 on Thursday, June 7th.
Monday, April 16, 2012
New Flavors for Vodka
Every so often I get inspired to make some new cocktail fixings. I thought that before the winter's bounty of citrus fruits were over and done I should try infusing some zest and see what I could come up with. Meyer lemon was the first venture. It's a lighter and fresher version of a regular old lemon, much more perfumed. It probably won't hold up to stronger mixers but I think it would be lovely with tonic or club soda. From there I made pink grapefruit and minneola tangerine. I'm imagining paring some of these with vanilla for some interesting creamsicle variations.
Also had the good fortune of being present when the horseradish roots were being dug up in my community garden. I've always thought horseradish vodka was a natural, being halfway to a Bloody Mary already. My specimen was long and thin and fairly easy to clean so I opted out of peeling and just chopped it up. I used about two and a half tablespoons of chopped fresh horseradish to one cup of vodka and let it sit for just a day before straining. I also made a batch with a teaspoon of crushed black peppercorns. I'm so intrigued by the possibilities that I ended up buying another horseradish root and making more. I have fresh tomato season in mind, so this second batch is being put away for safe keeping.
horseradish root |
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