Tinctures, Extracts and Infusions

Linden tincture filtering.

This season has me wanting to capture as much of it's flavors and fragrances as I possibly can.  After my recent trip to California to learn more about natural perfumery I've been hungry to gather new fragrant ingredients.  I thought I might tincture a few things to add to my perfume organ.

Linden blossoms drying.

I started with trying to capture the incredible, brief and elusive fragrance of linden.  Where I live in Brooklyn there are many linden trees and there is a two week period at the end of June that is phenominaly fragrant.  I recently bought a bottle of linden CO2 from Aftelier and have been playing around with it.  It's a beautiful note, very honeyed and sweet but a bit difficult to work with since it's so easy to lose the quintessential quality of it.  I wondered how a tincture would be so I picked some blossoms and left them to dry for a day or two before I submerged them in 190 proof vodka.  After a few days I strained it out and replaced the blossoms.  It's now on it's third infusion.  I shake it daily and dab a bit on my wrist.  At first it's grassy and more like hay but dries down more like the scented June air.

Chocolate mint extract filtering.

In my community garden plot I have a patch of chocolate mint that's out of this world.  I've used it in the past to make tea and was pleased but not as fanatical about it is as I've been since last summer when I made some chocolate mint vodka out of it.  The chocolate really comes through when it's macerated.  I've been conjuring cocktails (along with the rest of the civilized world) the past couple of years but I don't even mix this with anything else.  It's so good just on it's own.  I wondered if I could make an extract of it to flavor other things, like seltzer or ice cream.  I chopped up a bunch very fine and put it in a jar and covered it with 190 proof alcohol.  It very quickly turned bright green.  I shook it daily and yesterday strained off the emerald green liquid and used it to make chocolate mint seltzer.  It's delicious but I'm not satisfied so I picked more mint last night and have added it to the extract - a double maceration.

Jasmine blossoms macerating.

Now my interest is piqued and I've been exploring some other materials to tincture.  Dried jasmine blossoms have yielded a surprising result, more like cigarette burning than the indolic and intoxicating fragrance I expected.  I've also been playing around with tea.  I had some peach flavored black tea in the house and started with that.  It's made the most exquisite elixir, I want to slather myself in it.  A recent trip to the tea store and I now have Lapsang Souchong, Jasmine and Russian Caravan soaking.

              Basically all you do is make sure you have clean jars and good strong vodka (190 proof is best).  Fresh plant material is best dried a day or two so that there is less water involved in your creation.  Chop herbs finely and put in the jar and pour in just enough alcohol to cover.  Make sure that everything is submerged in alcohol or you run the risk of spoilage and ruining your experiment.  Shake the jars daily.  You can double the maceration if you're so inclined.  As always keep good notes so if you create something heavenly you can create it again. Good luck!

Cocktail Alchemy - A Workshop

"Alchemy is the art of transmutation, of taking the rough and raw and rendering it more precious" writes Pam Grossman, curator of the group art show, Alchemically Yours.  To celebrate the closing of the show at the Observatory Room in Brooklyn I'll be hosting a Cocktail Workshop featuring some alchemically transmuted elixirs.  Simple vodka will be transformed by a little herbal magic and then successfully rendered into delicious (and possibly even nutritious) cocktails.  Chocolate mint, angelica and lemon verbena vodka (among others) will be available to sample as well as the cocktails they inspire.  The Sprite, The Kashmere and The Black Dog are a few of the libations that will be passed around to tickle your palette.

Cocktail Dilutions

I'll be using essential oils and absolutes from my natural perfumer's collection to add a unique accent to the drinks.  The oils have been diluted so that only one drop is necessary to give the cocktails an original and uncommon flavor. Some of the flavors include jasmine, yuzu, blood orange, black pepper and petitgrain.  Floral Waters such as Chamomile Water also make an an unexpected appearance.

The show is running until June 12th at the Observatory Room, 543 Union (at Nevins).

The Healing Benefits of Mustard

The healing effects of Mustard have been appreciated by many cultures for centuries. The ancient Greeks and Romans, Europeans, and Native Americans have all used mustard for medicinal purposes. It is known for it's detoxification and purification abilities, increasing circulation, oxygenation and the elimination of toxins.  Mustard baths are recommended for treating headaches, colds and cough.  The effects of rheumatic pains and neuralgias are also decreased through regular use.

Lately the aches and pains of life (traveling, gardening and working out) are taking their toll and I've started to search for a remedy.  I came across some literature about the healing benefits of mustard baths and decided to try it out.





I combined mustard with sodium bicarbonate to neutralize acid and restore pH balance. The essential oils of wintergreen, thyme, eucalyptus and rosemary are added to reduce muscle soreness.  The effect of my first bath amazed me.  First I got my house in order so that I could go straight to bed as was suggested.  I prepared my bath and sunk into the yellow fragrant water and let go of the details of the day.  As I soaked I felt my body let go of the tension and I finally relaxed.  I always do a little ritual meditation when I pull the plug on the spent bathwater, imagining my tension and woes being drawn off of me and circling the drain.  Afterward I showered off the residual mustard and made my way to bed.

I am now a true believer in the power of this ancient herb.  I slept soundly straight through the night and woke up refreshed and definitely less tense.  I was inspired to share my conversion with my clients so formulated and packaged my own Mustard Bath for Herbal Alchemy Apothecary, in a packet good for one bath or a jar with two or three.

Natural Perfume Workshop with Mandy Aftel

Mandy's scent organ

I recently attended a most informative, creative and sensual workshop in the art of natural perfume in the home studio of Mandy Aftel, the premier natural perfumer and author the the natural perfumers bible, Essence and Alchemy.  Over the years I've taken several perfume and aromatherapy workshops but the difference here is, aside from all of the practical information (of which there was plenty), it was also akin to taking an art class.  Indeed, Mandy has elevated natural perfume from hippie fragrance to an art form and my appreciation of her as an artist grew throughout the weekend.  Her teaching method was simple and straight from art school:  a morning lecture explaining concepts and exploring materials and techniques followed by a blending session where we each made our own perfume.  We were then critiqued and spent some time adjusting our formulas and critiqued again.  Her critiques were accurate but delivered gently and inevitably we all made better perfumes the second time around.

I came away with a better understanding of the shape and texture of a perfume and with a nose tuned in to the subtle differences in aromas, better able to distinguish between a good quality oil from it's lesser counterpart.  Indeed, my sense of smell is heightened overall.  As I walk down the streets of my Brooklyn neighborhood in Spring I can pick up subtle scents wafting in the breeze.  I came across a vase of fresh peonies the other day and could distinctly pick up the variance in the scent of each blossom.

I also had the opportunity to smell things I had only read about and things I have searched for to no avail.  One such oil is Flouve, a sweet, herbaceous tobacco-like oil that is so rich and complex that one keeps finding notes in it.  Another is Oud, a rare and precious oil from the Agarwood tree, one of the most expensive perfume ingredients around at about $1000 to $1400 an ounce.  Mandy collects antique oils as well which she hunts the globe for.  Antique patchouli oil is rich and complex and bears little resemblance to the ubiquitous hippie aroma.

The workshop was a wonderful, creative and expansive experience which I'll be drawing from to create new fragrances for Herbal Alchemy.  I'm so grateful for the opportunity to study with Mandy and to get to know a little better this warm, generous and dedicated teacher and perfumer.

A selection of top notes from the perfume organ.

Berkeley in Bloom

  

I'm just back in town from a wonderful weekend in Berkeley, CA where I attended a natural perfume workshop with the extremely talented Mandy Aftel.  The whole fragrance experience began for me on the first day of my trip spent wandering the streets of North Berkeley.  Everywhere I turned I was astonished by fragrant blooms.  Thick brackets of jasmine hung thickly all over the neighborhood, and roses the size of cabbages wafted their aromas on the breeze.
  

Berkeley Rose Garden

I discovered the Berkeley Rose Garden, perched high on a hill with an incredible view of the Bay and Golden Gate Bridge.  It was a literal amphitheater of roses.  I was very fortunate to visit the area during peak rose season.  Every rose smell differently and it was a wonderful way to prepare my nose for my upcoming workshop in perfumery.

 

 

A Rave Review!

I'm so thrilled to share this lovely review from Trish at Scent Hive for my Garden Walk perfume.  Trish has been kind and generous with her words and I'm thrilled to bits.

Garden Walk #1 is a perfume commissioned by Jessica Warren from Brownstone Brooklyn Garden District.  The fragrance was inspired by the flowers in the group's 13th Annual Garden Walk. The tour included 15 private gardens as well as several vibrant community gardens in the historical district of Clinton Hill, Brooklyn. 

Earthy notes such as orris root, ambrette and hay represent the fertile soil of these gardens, floral middle notes such as tuberose and neroli round it out and it ends with top notes of petitgrain and elemi. Even the bees are represented in this formula with the addition of honey absolute.

The perfume is $45 for 20 ml, or a sample vial for $3, and can be purchased on my website at www.herbalalchemy.net or my Etsy store.

Nettles: A Spring Tonic

The Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) is a common herbaceous plant native to Europe, Asia, northern Africa and North America. It is known for it's sting which is caused by it's many hairs containing several chemicals.  When touched the hairs break off and act as a needle injecting acetylcholine, histamine, 5-HT or seratonin which cause a painful sting or paresthesia.  A folk remedy for rheumatism is to flog oneself with nettles (also called urtication) producing reddness and irritation.

My interest in it is for it's rich vitamin and mineral content.  Made into a tea or infusion it makes a delicious tonic.  After a long winter the high mineral content makes them an excellent remedy for anaemia.  Their high vitamin C content makes the iron they contain easily absorbable.  Nettles also increase uric acid excretion which explains why they are a valuable remedy for arthritis and gout.

Nettles also lower blood sugar levels, encourage the flow of breast milk, are a great astringent (so stop internal bleeding) and are useful for treating eczema.  It's histamine content make it an effective treatment for hay fever.  It is also said that a nettle hair rinse can eliminate dandruff, make the hair more glossy and possibly arrest hair loss.

The blood invigorating properties of this common herb make it an essential component of my transition from winter to the warmer and more active seasons.  I start infusing the herb early in the spring to reinvigorate myself.  Infusions are different from teas in that they steep far longer and are therefore more potent.  Every night before I go to bed I put a handful of dried nettles (I buy them by the pound) in a clean 24 ounce jar and pour boiling water over them.  Loosely cover the jar (if you tighten it it will be difficult to open in the morning) and leave out on the counter.  In the morning I strain the herbs from the infusion.  I also squeeze as much liquor from the herbs as possible.  You can drink them cool but I prefer to gently warm them on the stovetop.  Drink a third of the infusion three times per day.  I keep the infusion in the refrigerator during the day to retard spoilage.  I've added a few other herbs to my brew, some for flavor and some for some other conditions I'm working on.  You can add some peppermint or lemon balm to make it a bit more refreshing.  I've added chamomile to mine since I'm attempting to de-stress my sometimes frazzled urban nerves.  I might add that the spent herbs make excellent compost!

I should add that this is a regimen I do for myself every spring.  Please be responsible and always use caution when self-medicating (standard disclaimer and all that).

Be healthy and enjoy the spring!