Teaching Natural Perfume

A selection of natural oils

My Natural Perfume Blending Workshops at 3rd Ward in Brooklyn have been a joy to teach.  It's was enormous fun to introduce students to a selection of essential oils, absolutes and concretes and guide them towards blending their own fragrance.

For most of the students it was the first time they had a chance to smell some of the more exotic and rare oils that a natural perfumer uses.  Ambery labdanum and earthy oak moss were favorite bottom notes for the group.  They swooned over sultry jasmine sambac and orange flower concrete, rich and complex honey and spicy aromatic clove absolute.  Head notes of pink grapefruit, fir needle and black pepper peaked their interest for top notes. 

The January and February classes at 3rd Ward have filled up already but there is a link to get on a wait list for future classes.  I'll also be teaching at Observatory Room sometime this spring.  I've discovered that I love teaching!

Natural Perfume Blending Workshops

Smell is the most neglected of our senses yet it has an instantaneous power to penetrate our consciousness invoking memories and emotion. Odors are ethereal and elusive yet can strongly attract or repel.

As a concerned consumer, you are choosing organic food, seeking out sustainable products and opting for eco-friendly packaging. But what about the fragrance you wear? That signature scent is likely composed of synthetic materials (as most commercial fragrances are), mass-produced, packaged and shipped around the world in the millions of units.   Natural perfumery is a much different process that uses only essential oils and precious absolutes that are extracted from plants. Like fine wine, subtle differences can be found from the same plant from year to year depending on soil conditions and climate meaning that it is not an exact science but a creative alchemical process.

In this sensory workshop we will examine the artisanal art of natural perfumery.  Students will gain a basic understanding of the sense of smell, the history of perfume, the advent of synthetic ingredients and the return to naturals.  Perfume ingredients and formulation will be explored and each participant will leave with two bottles of their own bespoke perfume.

No prior knowledge of perfume making is required.  Students should bring a notebook to class, all other materials will be provided.

3rd Ward
195 Morgan Avenue
Brooklyn, NY
Sunday, December 11th
2:30 - 5:300pm

and in 2012...

3rd Ward
195 Morgan Avenue
Brooklyn, NY
Thursday, January 19th
7:00 - 10:00pm
and
Saturday, February 11th
1:30 - 4:30pm

The Art of Collaboration: Rachelle Garniez and Her Signature Scent

A few years ago I decided that working collaboratively was going to be far more interesting than anything I could come up with on my own.  After years of insisting on working solo and rejecting any input I suddenly came around to the notion of how creative it could be to work with others.  I've always loved an assignment, someone suggesting a project that has to be worked within guidelines.  A blank white page can be thrilling but often intimidating and overwhelming.  Collaborating is more like working within the guidelines, testing how creative you can be within certain boundaries.  I also enjoy the chance to step outside of working in isolation and having another to share ideas with.

Rachelle Garniez

I met Rachelle Garniez a few years ago at a local music venue.  She was listed on the events calendar as "an accordionist and chanteuse extraordinaire" and I was intrigued.  I loved the show and kept coming back until we finally talked and became friends.  She expressed a love of perfume and as I warmed up to the idea of a collaboration I approached her with the idea of turning one of her songs into a fragrance.  She loved the idea and suggested "Tourmaline", off of her cd, Melusine Years.

After spending some time listening to the song we finally got together to start blending, not sure exactly how to put musical notes to fragrance but we knew we wanted the scent to be uplifting and spirited, like the song.  We loved the tobacco absolute and how it pared with peru balsam.  A touch of ambrette and guaicwood rounded out our bottom chord.  Linden and orange flower absolute became the basis of the heart note with honey absolute, neroli and carnation giving it a bit more edge.  Rosewood and bitter orange top out the fragrance.

I made a limited edition of the perfume for a pair of shows that Rachelle was doing at the locally famous Joe's Pub in Manhattan.  It was a joy for me to dab perfume on the many outstretched wrists after the show.  I mingled with the crowd afterward and got a chance to really smell how the perfume interacted with each woman's particular chemical make-up.

I recently sold the last bottle of Tourmaline.  After seeing Rachelle perform again last night I've decided to make another batch.  Working with those particular oils again transports me back to that long afternoon spent blending while a lost butterfly fluttered around my studio.  Trish at Scent Hive has written a lovely revue of Tourmaline which you can read here.

Rachelle is releasing her new cd, Sad-Dead-Alive-Happy, at Dixon Place in Manhattan on Friday, November 11th at 8:30.  I'll be there dabbing wrists after the show.

New Extracts

Chocolate Mint and Peach Tea extract

Back in June I posted about my absolute obsession with tincturing and macerating.  My garden was in full thrust and I was still heady from my recent trip to Mandy Aftel's natural perfume workshop in Berkeley.  My mission, originally, was to take advantage of my garden to create some alcohol bases to make perfumes with.  I ventured a little further afield and ended up tincturing dried jasmine blossoms and, most rewardingly, tea.

My biggest success was with an organic loose leaf peach flavored tea.  It's difficult to find a fruity note in natural oils so originally I was simply looking for that.  What I discovered was that the extracted liqueur was so much richer and more complex than I could have imagined.  I dabbed it on my wrists constantly all summer long and inhaled deeply that sweet, smokey aroma reminiscent of hundreds of comforting afternoons with my hands wrapped around a warm cup.

My other big success in extract making was with the chocolate mint taking over my community garden plot.  I knew from infusing it in vodka that the alcohol seemed to really extend the chocolate flavor, much more so than in a cup of herb tissane.  I finely chopped up about a cup of mint and poured enough 190 proof vodka over it to cover and let it sit for a few days.  After straining it I added another cup of chopped herb to make it double strength.

I quite naturally started to think about how to use the extracts in food.  I think their flavors would lend themselves to some delicious desserts, most notably ice cream and sorbets.  I started to experiment with using them in seltzer and, not surprisingly, they were delicious.  Peach tea seltzer has now become a favorite of mine and I can't keep enough extract in the house.  As the bubbly glass approaches your nose you can't help but be overwhelmed by it's gorgeous bouquet.  About a half teaspoon to a teaspoon works nicely in a ten to twelve ounce glass of sparkling water.  I'm spoiled now, I'll never again buy a lemon, lime or (horror of horrors) artificial black cherry flavored seltzer again.

My New Krrb

I've been fortunate to have been found by the local networking website, Krrb.com.  They were kind enough to set up a nice "store" for me on their website and spotlighted my potions in their blog.  They seem to particularly like my Viper Oil.

In the '20's folks who smoked medicinal herbs (think Louis Armstrong) were called Vipers. There are a slew of songs from that era including a favorite of mine performed nicely by the 4th Street Nite Owls, "If You're a Viper".

The band and I had an idea for a skin formulation, something akin to Snake Oil, for "taking the sting out" that they could sell at shows. Viper Oil was born out of this brainstorm and uses hemp oil as it's main ingredient.

The hemp oil is combined with an olive oil maceration of comfrey, calendula, plantain, yarrow, red clover, thyme and roses (all grown locally in my garden) and fortified with the essential oils of frankincense, lavender, geranium, hemp, carrot seed and rose.

I had a good time doing some research into old time Snake Oil and could only imagine a barker announcing my "miracle cure".  "Takes the sting out of skin afflictions such as insect bites, cuts, minor burns, abrasions & irritations. Reduces inflammation, soothes your wounds, abates your misery. The wound resolution miracle!"

Handlebar Magazine Review

In August I was lucky enough to be reviewed in the online men's magazine Handlebar.   The article discusses the difficulty in finding a men's fragrance that isn't overpriced and "overpopultated" and features a few smaller independent perfumers.  Jeremy Wolf writes a generous review of The Ambergill, and even goes so far as to refer to me as an "alchemical savant"!  I'm blushing…

Herbal Alchemy Gets Some Love

I was recently interviewed for the online magazine Scout Mob, a great resource for local businesses.  They offer daily deals for subscribers so check it out.  The lovely Carly Wray made me look like I really know what I'm talking about.  The post sent me a flurry of interest in my lectures and workshops, quite a few sales off my website and several offers to be my intern!  I'm feeling the love!